Tag Archives: Artvin

It’s too late for the Çoruh

A slow, rotten death that I had the opportunity to experience firsthand.  A mistake and disaster on the scale of Glen Canyon.  It’s over 200km from Muratlı to İspir and just about all of it is or will be flooded.  … Continue reading

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Secret agents, closed border, military pursuit, saved by a coincidence

One more tour through Artvin and a quick rest with Ferda in Olimpos.  That was the last of my plans for Turkey.  I estimated three days from Kemalpaşa to Meydancık, not realizing just how big the climbs were.  Aren’t I … Continue reading

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The highway to Anı

After our epic crossing of the Kaçkar, Sage and I took some mellower roads to leave the Black Sea.  Like highways.  Certainly the most highway riding I’ve done in Turkey has been the last couple of weeks.  I am reminded … Continue reading

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Erdoğan, kids, and development

It’s time for Erdoğan to go.  Power corrupts.  He’s been Prime Minister over nine years.  Tayyip, as he’s commonly and respectfully referred to on the street, was initially elected with the support of Turkey’s educated middle class by promising not … Continue reading

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Trekking and biking the high Kaçkar

From Yusufeli it was a 3300m climb to Kaçkar Dağı Summit, the highest peak in the Eastern Black Sea Mountains (Doğu Karadeniz Dağları).  From rice paddies to snow and ice.  Sage and I took four days.  We biked up to … Continue reading

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