Artvin’s worth the effort!

Turks like to travel, and many have travelled a lot in their own country.  When I ask about their favourite place to visit, their eyes light up, they smile, and they start gushing about Artvin.

Before we could get to Artvin, however, we had to climb another pass.  Actually Sage pointed out roads on the map that go around the mountains.  She’s never been on such a squiggly bike tour before where the apparent goal is to find the roads that climb the highest.

Don’t worry!  Just ’cause she showed me roads that don’t climb so much doesn’t mean we actually took them.  She likes the climbing as well, and after a couple warm-up descents on her new bike, she’s now barrelling down the hills faster than I am.

Sage, however, isn’t a big fan of lightning and gets particularly scared when the thunder and lightning crack simultaneously.  This phenomenon has been disappointingly difficult to avoid the last week.

Before the big climb to Artvin, we took a side excursion to Tortum Gölü and Tortum Şelalesi.  The long, skinny lake along the river was naturally dammed by a landslide somewhere between 200 and 2,000,000 years ago.  Geologists aren’t sure.  Part of the reason to visit was for Sage to see the tourist scene in Turkey.  She’s been a little surprised how few tourists we’ve seen.  Well, the lake had none, but there were groups of Turks picnicking at the waterfall.

DSCN0153 by bryandkeith on flickr

DSCN0160 by bryandkeith on flickr

Our next stop was the old Georgian church at Öşvank, supposedly one of the best in an area full of old Georgian churches.  Thankfully it was on our route as it’s hardly impressive for the non-old-Georgian-church expert.

The old Georgian church at Öşvank by bryandkeith on flickr

From there the climb started — up, up, up we went.  From the fertile valley to the dry hillsides, to the pine forests, and up to the alpine where a cold wind was blowing.

DSCN0199 by bryandkeith on flickr

DSCN0226 by bryandkeith on flickr

DSCN0230 by bryandkeith on flickr

Anticipating a fast 1800m descent to Yusufeli, we took such a leisurely morning that we got caught in the afternoon thunderstorms as soon as our bikes were packed.  Lots of lightning and 15 minutes of hard hail.  I knew that bike helmet would come in handy.

The first 500m (vertical) of descent was fast and beautiful.  We came to an intersection, consulted our map, and went straight.  The next 200m (horizontal) took two hours.  As we wallowed in the mud, a shepherd came by and assured us we were on the wrong road.  We had already decided that.  He pointed us down to Kılıçkaya, an alternate, non-muddy way to Yusufeli.

DSCN0249 by bryandkeith on flickr

DSCN0254 by bryandkeith on flickr

What a spectacular descent it was.  On and on and on.  Sage can’t understand why cyclists haven’t discovered Artvin.  There are so many cyclists on the incredible routes of Central Asia that she’s ridden.  She’s compared landscapes and roads we’ve been on in Turkey to those in Mongolia, Pakistan, and Kyrgyzstan and is surprised we’re the only cyclists out here.

DSCN0260 by bryandkeith on flickr

DSCN0266 by bryandkeith on flickr

DSCN0272 by bryandkeith on flickr

DSCN0295 by bryandkeith on flickr

And then we got to the Çoruh.  If Turks’ favourite province (İl) is Artvin, well their favourite place in Artvin is the Çoruh Valley.  The mountains are big, the canyons deep, and the colours spectacular.

DSCN0292 by bryandkeith on flickr

DSCN0297 by bryandkeith on flickr

DSCN0303 by bryandkeith on flickr

1800m down from the cold mountains to hot Yusufeli.  Obviously time to climb again…

I found the huge landscapes and endless mountains very difficult to photograph.  In some places the photos look more amazing than the real thing.  In Artvin the opposite is true.

DSCN0167 by bryandkeith on flickr

DSCN0237 by bryandkeith on flickr

This entry was posted in Bicycle touring, Turkey and tagged , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

3 Responses to Artvin’s worth the effort!

  1. Fatih Çiftlikçi says:

    Başarılar.Sizi seviyorum.Kaçkar Dağı’nda karşılaşmıştık.İkram ettiğiniz çayı ve dostluğu unutmadım.Bu arada sucukları yakmanız da ayrı bir olaydı.Şimdi Malatya’dayım.Burada hava çok sıcak sizleri özlüyorum.Selamlar.Kendinize dikkat edin.Sorunsuz yolculuklar.

    • fatih çiftlikçi says:

      Hi, I am very busy todays but next month I will be free.I miss will be carefull.forever your friend fatih çiftlikçi Malatya-TURKEY

  2. FATİH says:


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.