Olive milling in Antalya

Ferda and I have four olive trees on a small piece of land in Geyikbayırı. Some years we don’t make it up there at all and let the neighbors harvest the olives. Some years we get a group of friends, and everyone takes some olives home to cure for eating. This year we decided to see if we could get some oil. The day was a surprising success.

We rented a car, drove up to Geyikbayırı, and borrowed some equipment from a neighbor. The important things here were a ladder, a fairly large tarp, and a small rake-like tool that you can pull through the branches and pull off olives. I doubt it was much before 10am by the time we started picking olives. Ferda and I were at it all day until after sunset. Yeliz came up in the morning and brought us breakfast. Seda showed up in the afternoon with the kids. They weren’t much help at all and got bored fairly quickly, but Seda certainly helped picking olives.

From this effort we ended up with 112kg of olives. There were still lots of olives on the tress, but we were out of time. Also, the olives that were left were mostly the difficult to reach ones. It would be good to hire an expert one year and see how they manage to clean the olives off the trees so well. We know they do ’cause we told the neighbors to collect the rest of our olives and give us a share for eating. Our share ended up being 10kg. When we went up to get those olives, we saw that there were hardly any olives left on our trees. How did they do that?

When you mill olives, you want to do it the same day that you pick them. We packed the car, returned everything to the neighbor, and had a longer drive than expected to the mill in Döşemealtı. I have visited one of these mills near the Aegean where it seems like every third village has an olive mill. That’s certainly not the case in Antalya where there are fewer olive trees (many more oranges and pomegranate here). We had called the mill to be sure they’d be open, and they said that they’re near the entrance to Döşemealtı. Well, that turned out to be on the far side from Antalya. It was certainly dark by the time we arrived, but we managed to find the place, Döşemealtı Zeytinyağı Fabrikası.

There we learned that we had 112kg of olives and that the minimum they mill is 200kg. Ferda asked around and found two guys who let us join them. The place was crowded, and we had to wait perhaps two hours before our turn came. At the last minute an older couple showed up with only 36kg, and they joined us as well. It was nice that all the olives in our pool (of 405kg) from four places looked the same.

IMG_20241114_204619_1 by bryandkeith on flickr

Finally the excitement starts. Dumping the olives into the first large sink thing:

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Bicycle touring the Küre Dağları: Amasra to Safranbolu

This short trip was my only self-supported bicycle tour in Turkey in 2024. I piggy-backed it onto our rainy Bartın Bisiklet Festivali. It was raining when I walked to breakfast my last morning in Amasra, but the rain had stopped before I finished eating. I guess you could say I was lucky with the weather that day. The next rain was mid-afternoon, but it was light and didn’t last.

My last view of Amasra was on the same climb that we had done one of the mornings during the festival. It felt harder with a loaded bicycle. No surprise there, but almost all my touring is with a heavy bicycle, and I tend to forget how much easier it is without carrying stuff.

bye, bye Amasra by bryandkeith on flickr

The second climb was about 400m, and then I descended through İnciğez (with too many nasty dogs)

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9. Bartın Bisiklet Festivali

The 9th Bartın Bicycle Festival. Notice that this is called “festival”, not “tour”, making it quite different from the two organized bicycle tours that I’ve done in Turkey (Kayseri and Gökova). The big difference is that we were based in one place the whole time — Amasra — instead of moving every day, like on a “tour”.

For years at my office at work I had a photo of Amasra from the first time I pedaled through in 1998. It was taken from a similar location as this photo which we took this year:

20241017_130015 by bryandkeith on flickr

No one ever guessed that that was Turkey. Amasra is a beauty on Turkey’s generally ugly Black Sea coast. Not surprisingly lots of tourists come. The festival organizers got permission for us to camp on one of the beaches in town, Büyük Liman Plajı. It’s the beach you can see in the center of this photo:

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A week in Saint Petersburg

Don’t think you can see the highlights of Saint Petersburg in a week. We barely scratched the surface, and after a week our list of things we wanted to see and do was still longer than what we actually managed to see and do.

I guess I’ll start with the riding to get into the city. The outer suburbs like Pushkin and Petergof are mostly connected with auto-centric development, somewhat miserable for cyclists. However, after riding about 12-15km east from Petergof, we arrived in more dense urbanization. It was still another ~20km into the city center, but the riding was surprisingly easy and pleasant considering the size of the city. Compared to other large cities I’ve pedaled in I’d rate Saint Petersburg favorably, above Tokyo, Mexico City, Cairo, İstanbul, Los Angeles, Bangkok, but not (yet?) up to the standards of Seoul, Madrid, or Fukuoka. Since I’m here comparing the ease and joy of bicycling in large cities, my experience in Saint Petersburg was on par with Manila and Barcelona.

Some Asian stir fry out in these residential blocks powered us the rest of the way to the city center.

IMG_20240926_124841 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Bicycle touring Russia: Ivangorod to Petergof via Gatchina, Pavlovsk, and Pushkin

Wow, what a week of bicycle touring! Of course, I had been to Russia before, but not by bicycle, and I was a little concerned with how we’d be treated as cyclists. We needn’t have worried.

First, though, we had to get there. It took about seven hours (perhaps a personal record?) to cross the border from Narva to Ivangorod. Much of that was waiting to be interviewed on the Russian side. They were more polite than the immigration officers doing a similar job at the Tel Aviv airport but less competent than the officers I spent a day with in Ust Koksa.

Ferda made a friend while she waited for me in the sun.

20240918_141523 by bryandkeith on flickr

Finally in Ivangorod we changed money at a bank and went straight to a restaurant ’cause we hadn’t eaten anything all day.

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