A week on Koh Kradan

With the excuse to practice the freediving skills that we learned on Koh Lanta, Ferda and I spent a week at Ao Niang Resort on Koh Kradan. I had read that Ao Niang has some of the best beach-accessible snorkeling in Thailand. It’s the best I’ve seen, but that doesn’t say much. There was enough in the water to entertain us for a week. The coral’s not great, but I have lots of lousy photos to give an idea of the creatures you might see underwater at Ao Niang.

Above ground is kind of pretty. Here’s Ao Niang Beach with the resort bungalows.

20250314_081902 by bryandkeith on flickr
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There is electricity from 6pm to 6am, and it’s cool enough to sleep comfortably with a fan and mosquito net. Here’s an average or slightly high tide.

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20250308_185353 by bryandkeith on flickr

By the end of the week the moon was full, and getting in and out of the water at low tide was a bit difficult. At low tide you can easily walk to the main beach at Koh Kradan, and at other times you can take a trail that’s shorter and easier than we expected. We walked over there one day to check out a beach on the west side of the island (Ao Chonglom) — hot, no shade, no breeze — and have dinner at the main beach (facing NE) where there are many resorts.

20250309_164906 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20250309_173729 by bryandkeith on flickr

More competition did not seem to make the food any cheaper or better. Thankfully we were happy with the cooking at Ao Niang. They sell 19l bottles of water as well which is useful.

IMG_20250309_112437 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20250308_182509 by bryandkeith on flickr

But really what we did was snorkel — every day for seven days, usually about four hours/day. We did wait for rain squalls to pass a few times. The shade and breeze (usually) at Ao Niang Beach (facing SE) made it comfortable to hang out.

There are lots of moray eels. Sometimes it seemed that every time we dove down, we’d find one — or even two! Photos were difficult. Here’s a honey comb moray,

honeycomb moray by bryandkeith on flickr

a giant moray with a cleaner wrasse in its mouth,

PICA0153 by bryandkeith on flickr

and a small moray that I haven’t been able to identify.

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One of the funnest things was finding so many nudibranch. Mostly it was the beautiful colorful — black and white with orange bumps and orange rhinopore — Phyllidia varicosa. Again horrible photos — I ought to get a nice underwater camera:

PICA0308 by bryandkeith on flickr

The other nudibranch we saw frequently was the Phyllidiella nigra, but that’s little more than a black smudge in the photo. We found quite a few crab and shrimp.

PICA0185 by bryandkeith on flickr
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It’s always fun to play with (the more photogenic) anemonefish.

20250312_145955 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Clark’s anemonefish
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pink skunk anemonefish

I don’t think I’d ever seen red saddleback anemonefish before.

PICA0255 by bryandkeith on flickr
PICA0192 by bryandkeith on flickr

It was fun to dive down and swim among large schools of fish, mostly stuff I couldn’t identify. Closer to the surface were schools of silver moony,

silver moony by bryandkeith on flickr

blue stripe snapper,

bluestripe snapper by bryandkeith on flickr

or even red tail butterflyfish.

PICA0165 by bryandkeith on flickr

For the first time in Thailand I saw razorfish

PICA0122 by bryandkeith on flickr

and spadefish.

PICA0015 by bryandkeith on flickr

The copperband butterflyfish sometimes let me get quite close,

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as did the pin cushion stars (!).

PICA0155 by bryandkeith on flickr

We also saw a couple rabbitfish species,

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scribbled rabbitfish
Java rabbitfish by bryandkeith on flickr
Java rabbitfish

Titan triggerfish, at least three species of puffer, damselfish, lionfish, angelfish (including a juvenile blue ring!), giant clams, powder blue tang. This photo’s lousy, but it might be enough to remind you if you’ve ever watched a juvenile sweetlips dancing.

PICA0320 by bryandkeith on flickr

Bye bye, fish. See you next time.

PICA0218 by bryandkeith on flickr
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And bye bye to beautiful Ao Niang Beach as well.

IMG_20250307_155609 by bryandkeith on flickr
20250313_143131 by bryandkeith on flickr
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