Since Ferda and I were in Glasgow heading to London, we had to stop by Edinburgh, right? It pops up on lists of travellers’ favorite cities in Europe, and maybe that was part of the problem. I think I had high expectations, imagining something like Cáceres on steroids. By the end of the first day I was pretty unimpressed. However, Edinburgh grew on me, and by the end of our visit I understood why people like it.
On our first afternoon we happened upon the Mansfield Traquair Centre on the one day/month that they’re open to the public. It’s an old church now used for events.
The highlight is the colorful frescoes by Phoebe Anna Traquair.
You should also not miss the beautiful embroidery by Phoebe Anna Traquair at the National Gallery in Edinburgh. Sorry, this photo is horrible.
The highlight at the National Gallery is a pair of paintings by Sir Joseph Noel Paton from A Midsummer Night’s Dream: The Quarrel of Oberon and Titania and, shown here with another poor photo, The Reconciliation of Oberon and Titania — lizards, fairies, devils, bugs, owls, creatures with instruments for noses… reminiscent of Bosch. I spent a long time here and kept going back for more.
I complained about Bayt al-Razzaz Palace being closed when I was in Cairo last winter, but, look!, here’s a painting of the inside of the palace.
Last summer we saw another version of the Three Graces by the same artist, Antonio Canova, in the State Hermitage Museum.
Here are three others that I particularly liked at this museum. This first one by Gainsborough is the most stunning painting of the whole collection.
Another museum that we enjoyed spending time in on a rather rainy day was the National Museum of Scotland. The cast iron Grand Gallery is impressive
with this cast iron drinking fountain in the center.
Remember Dolly the sheep from early (1996) genetics work? Stuffed and in this museum.
Another thing to do in the rain is visit St. Giles’ Cathedral.
On our first day in Scotland that it didn’t rain Ferda and I walked up Arthur’s Seat where we got some views of the city.
That excursion was shorter than we expected so we visited (mostly 17th century) Holyroodhouse Palace that afternoon.
On the side is the ruins of the old abbey.
For a royal palace the interior is surprisingly modest. Photography’s prohibited, but this painting, showing the murder of David Rizzio, Mary Queen of Scots’ secretary, in Mary’s private apartments in this palace is supposed to be historically accurate.
Mostly what we enjoyed in Edinburgh was walking around the city.
Edinburgh was built along a ridge with the buildings packed pretty closely together for defensive purposes. As you walk along this ridge — called the Royal Mile — the land drops off on both sides often with stairs heading down to another part of town like this:
kind of opposite of Dubrovnik where the alleys off the main drag head up on both sides. Between the buildings are alleys called “close”. These are often dead-ends or lead to parking lots or trash dumpsters, but some lead to squares:
or courtyards:
or housing:
One close even led to this wonderful garden.
Indeed exploring the many (over 250?) closes was my favorite thing to do in Edinburgh.
Harry Potter fans visit Greyfriar’s Kirkyard where Rowling poached many of the last names for her books including apparently Potter, Riddle, Black, Moodie, McGonagall, Cruikshanks, Scrymgeour.
instagram influencers visit photogenic Dean Village.
We met up with Cansu and Yiğit for a couple hours one afternoon and talked about Adıyaman, Strasbourg, Alevis, political philosophy.
After a restaurant meal the four of us sat in this pleasant park for a bit.
Thorough tourists will probably visit Edinburgh’s castle. If that’s on your list, get a ticket early. The next available tickets were a month out when we were there!
Here’s another shot that you can find all over the internet.
Like I said before it’s all about the wandering.
See you in London.