Kyoto excursions: Fushimi, Arashiyama, Uji, Nara, Miho Museum

In my last post I showed some photos of some of the places we visited in central Kyoto. For this post I’ve separated out excursions that were a little further afield, sometimes very little.

Fushimi Inari Taisha Shinto Shrine, for example, was only about 6km south of our hotel. This is where we took my Dad for his second full day in Japan, still a bit jet-lagged. The walk up the hill through the 1000 torii gates ended up being a bit challenging.

We had been warned that the main temple would be very crowded,

IMG_20231105_104929 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20231105_104203 by bryandkeith on flickr

but that the crowds would thin out once we started up through the gates.

IMG_20231105_111413 by bryandkeith on flickr

Certainly not right away, but it turned out to be (more or less) true.

IMG_20231105_112448 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20231105_123951 by bryandkeith on flickr

It was kind of a weird excursion. You don’t get much of a view, mostly just shrines and torii gates and often many people.

IMG_20231105_112849 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20231105_123349 by bryandkeith on flickr

My Dad wandered off into the bamboo to get a little nature.

IMG_20231105_113859 by bryandkeith on flickr

We took an alternate route down and ended up at one of my favorite temples in Kyoto, the Zen Buddhist Tofuku-ji, mostly built during the 14th century Muromachi Period.

IMG_20231105_141232 by bryandkeith on flickr

Because Japanese dragons exhale water, they’re often painted on wooden ceilings to protect the buildings from fire.

Quite the painted ceiling by bryandkeith on flickr

The highlight was the four gardens, one on each side of the hojo, with symbols representing the eight aspects of Buddha’s life.

IMG_20231105_151203 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20231105_151849 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20231105_152131 by bryandkeith on flickr

Another excursion that was still in the Kyoto city limits was to Arashiyama. The area is famous for its bamboo groves, popular with all kinds of tourists.

IMG_20231106_105941 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20231106_110859 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20231106_110253 by bryandkeith on flickr
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We visited a few temples on a surprisingly quiet side street.

Sanshu-in? by bryandkeith on flickr
Sanshu-in
Shoganji Temple? by bryandkeith on flickr
Shoganji Temple
Mamoru Kuni Rei? by bryandkeith on flickr
Mamoru Kuni Rei

The main attraction is the garden at Tenryu-ji Temple. Indeed it’s on UNESCO’s list.

IMG_20231106_123720 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20231106_124504 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20231106_125149 by bryandkeith on flickr
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IMG_20231106_131216 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20231106_131659 by bryandkeith on flickr

On the hill above the temple is more bamboo,

IMG_20231106_133044 by bryandkeith on flickr

and if you go a little higher, you can see that you really are on the edge of Kyoto.

IMG_20231106_134015 by bryandkeith on flickr

We dove into a restaurant to get out of the rain, and I enjoyed this yummy tofu set for lunch.

tofu set by bryandkeith on flickr

If you’re headed this way, you might want to make reservations at the temple restaurant. It was fully booked a couple weeks out when we were there in November. Our place (at 35.01368° N, 135.67775° E) was also good for about half the price. The three of us got a table after a 10-minute wait.

Further afield we went one morning by bus to the Miho Museum. Seemingly bottomless deep pockets spent huge money to build this museum up in the mountains in the middle of nowhere. The architect was I. M. Pei, the same one who did the Mesa Library at NCAR in Boulder, another inconvenient-to-access building surrounded by protected land. Neither should have been built.

IMG_20231109_101301 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20231109_102703 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20231109_103523 by bryandkeith on flickr

What about the collection? You can’t take photos so I don’t have any. I thought the pieces were excellent. My Dad thought you could see similar treasures in the various museums of southern California.

Highlights for me were a 1st century colorful Roman fresco, a 4000-year-old carved wooden Egyptian statue of a human, a collection of painted bowls from 13th century Iran, and perhaps my favorite — a set of marble carvings from 6th century China which included horses, an ox cart, an elephant, a camel.

A couple more photos of the grounds:

IMG_20231109_102640 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20231109_100323 by bryandkeith on flickr

Nara, of course, should be your list. I was looking forward to (again) seeing the oldest wooden buildings in world, but, alas, Horyuji wasn’t on our itinerary. Instead we focused on Todai-ji, one of the largest wooden buildings in the world.

IMG_20231110_142137 by bryandkeith on flickr

Todai-ji houses the largest bronze Buddha in the world, cast over three years in the middle of the 8th century.

IMG_20231110_143324 by bryandkeith on flickr

The building, of course, isn’t that old. It burned down twice. The one we’re seeing is from 1709 (Tokugawa Period).

IMG_20231110_141816 by bryandkeith on flickr

I found this garden nearby,

IMG_20231110_141548 by bryandkeith on flickr

and of course there are the famous Nara deer.

IMG_20231110_150852 by bryandkeith on flickr

Lunch that day was another yummy bento.

IMG_20231110_120519 by bryandkeith on flickr

A bit closer to Kyoto, in Uji we visited Byodo-in Temple, built as a private house in the 11th century. Wow, this place is a looker, so much so (I guess) that it features on the 10 jpy coin.

IMG_20231110_105911 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20231110_110134 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20231110_110352 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20231110_111719 by bryandkeith on flickr

With reservations you can get inside and see reproductions of the artwork. The originals are in the good onsite museum.

IMG_20231110_110820 by bryandkeith on flickr

Whew. There’s still lots more to see in and around Kyoto, but that’s all for now. Time to head west and see something new.

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