Kyoto, wow!

Near the end of my first trip to Japan over 20 years ago, I spent a few days in Kyoto. I remember being overwhelmed. During that bicycle tour, before arriving in Kyoto, we had seen one temple or shrine or garden in a day. Kyoto’s too much, I thought.

This year, my first return to Kyoto, I felt that in a full week of sightseeing we barely scratched the surface. As an example, we only made it to six of the 17 sites listed in the UNESCO-designated Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto. There’s a lot to see.

On our first morning on the way to Yasaka Shrine, my Dad and I wandered down a small street (Nishitera Machi Dori) with temple after temple.

So started our week in Kyoto. We were the only tourists ’cause, as it turns out, there’s street after street like this in Kyoto. We learned later that temples in Kyoto don’t pay taxes. Many times it seemed like we were simply looking at the garden (albeit beautiful) in front of someone’s house (also beautiful and very well-kept). Makes me wonder how they qualify for the tax-free status.

Thankfully we were fortified that morning with a good breakfast.

We found the tourists at Yasaka Shrine.

For lunch after poking around a bit, we sat down at an 11-seat ramen place, run by a friendly woman who seemed so happy that we were there and liked her food.

The afternoon took us to Kodai-ji, some of which was built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi and his wife, Nene. From his humble origins — his father was a farmer — he united Japan and became shogun (in all but name). For me the garden was the highlight, not the last time I said that in Kyoto.

That evening we treated ourselves to a kaiseki dinner at our hotel (Oyado Ishicho). It was the most elaborate Japanese meal I’ve ever had. Shabu shabu pork with veggies, a sashimi plate, a vegetable bowl, a plate with a small fish, pickled stuff, dried fish, tempura were some of what we were able to identify.

What a great first day in Kyoto. And it went on like that, day after day. I’ll try to be brief.

Nijo Castle was built in 1603 during the Tokugawa Shogunate when Kyoto was the capital of Japan.

The highlight was the garden again?

Ryoan-ji Temple is most famous for its Zen rock garden, but we spent way too little time there.

I liked the painted panels (fusuma?) in the hojo (abbots’ quarters).

Again, the garden:

The highlight of this busy day was Kinkaku-ji (aka Golden Pavilion). Originally built as a private house in the late 14th century, now it’s a Buddhist Temple (no taxes??!!).

Uh yeah, I remember that from 20 years ago. Also on the grounds at the same complex:

Dinner that night was kaiseki again. Here’s the sashimi course:

But I think I enjoyed the Japanese breakfast the next morning even more.

Our hotel (Westin Miyako) had beautiful grounds

and a sento (hot spring bath) which I took advantage of every evening.

As we saw, the Golden Pavilion is covered in 20kg of gold leaf. The Silver Pavilion (Ginkaku-ji), on the other hand, is not silver. It was also built as a private house, but earlier — during the Ashikaga Shogunate (before Toyotomi Hideyoshi).

From there our guide, Aki(ra) (aka Slim Sato), took us along the Philosopher’s Path to one of his favorite temples, Honen-in.

Further along was Nanzen-ji with its dry landscape garden.

Having visited many Roman aqueducts (as recently as four weeks earlier in Kavala), I was interested to see this modern (Meiji-era, late 19th century) brick aqueduct bringing water from Lake Biwa to Kyoto. It seemed to go right through the Nanzen-ji grounds.

After a fancy bento lunch, served in a bamboo basket,

first of the afternoon was Heian Jingu Shrine. It’s a new complex, contemporary with the aqueduct, and boasts one of the largest torii gates in Japan.

Again, perhaps about the garden?

I liked the tatami rooms at Shoren-in Temple.

At the Imperial Palace we learned about how the emperors were never allowed to leave the palace or even step on the ground (always on carpets or something). Must have been a pretty boring life.

One emperor so wanted to see Lake Biwa that he had this lake constructed on the palace grounds.

During the fall when the leaves change color, Kyoto has a number of temples open for night viewing. The only one we visited was Eikando Zenrin-ji Temple in spite of the fact that we were a bit too early in the season (2nd week of November) for the fall colors.

Finally, for something totally different how ’bout the light show at the Kyoto City Hall?