Likya Way walking: Kaş to Demre

where we visit the ancient cities of Antiphellos, Sebeda, Apollonia, Aperlai, Teimiussa, Simena, Istlada and Andriake.

What a fantastic area. I had been through here at least three times before. Even with that list (above) of eight sites that we visited this time, I’d still like to come back to this region by bicycle by a different route that links up at least eight more sites that would be new to me. And it’s not just about old rocks. The views are nice too.

We started with an afternoon in Kaş which is ancient Antiphellos. The theater has been thoroughly restored.

IMG_20240410_173221 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240410_173129 by bryandkeith on flickr

There are Likyan sarcophagus-type tombs scattered through the modern town,

IMG_20240410_180144 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240410_182927 by bryandkeith on flickr

and a bunch of rock-cut tombs in the cliffs to the NE of downtown.

IMG_20240410_182144 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240410_180859 by bryandkeith on flickr

The center of Kaş was very crowded, but I was the only one visiting those rock-cut tombs. Ali and Gülizar were on a mission to replace lost reading glasses, and Ferda was stressing over a missing id card.

The next day ended up being Ali and Gülizar’s last day of walking. They hitchhiked the following morning from Sısla to get to their car in Ölüdeniz and then back to their kids in İzmir.

IMG_20240411_095610 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240411_101137 by bryandkeith on flickr
Limanağzı

In the morning the trail went right through the ancient city of Sebeda where we saw some by now familiar-looking Likyan tombs.

IMG_20240411_101248 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240411_104017 by bryandkeith on flickr

The rest of the day was one fantastic Mediterranean view after another.

IMG_20240411_112949 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240411_114232 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240411_140323 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240411_153030 by bryandkeith on flickr

What a beautiful way for Gülizar and Ali to end their tour.

Ferda and I had two more long days to Demre. Staying only in Sısla and Üçağız, we were too rushed through here. There are many great places to swim and enjoy the sea, but we didn’t have time. If you come, plan more days.

The trail felt crowded each morning and surprisingly empty each afternoon.

IMG_20240412_083757 by bryandkeith on flickr

One morning we started talking with an art historian who had a tattoo of a Likyan sun on his calf.

IMG_20240412_103310 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240412_103258 by bryandkeith on flickr

The design was taken from a tomb from nearby Apollonia:

IMG_20240412_105600 by bryandkeith on flickr

Ferda and I explored Apollonia by ourselves as the art historian’s group was in too much of a hurry to make the ~2km detour off the main trail.

IMG_20240412_105300 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240412_105124 by bryandkeith on flickr

There is a church, theater, and fortress walls in addition to many Likyan tombs.

IMG_20240412_110546 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240412_110314 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240412_105913 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240412_112451 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240412_112551 by bryandkeith on flickr

Next was down to Aperlai which took longer than expected. Like at Kekova apparently part of the city is underwater. A couple with wetsuits and snorkeling gear were checking it out.

IMG_20240412_134310 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240412_132834 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240412_131142 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240412_134116 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240412_132420 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240412_133915 by bryandkeith on flickr

Most of the trail was rocky and up or down so we really appreciated this easy section between Aperlai and Üçağız.

IMG_20240412_150818 by bryandkeith on flickr

We treated ourselves to a tasty and filling dinner of çipura (bream?), salad, french fries, and bread in Üçağız before walking up to our campground (where we stayed in a little yurt-type thing).

IMG_20240412_174827 by bryandkeith on flickr

The campground was very crowded, but the showers were hot, the toilets were clean, it was quiet after 10pm and surprisingly dark at night (uncommon in Turkey where there seem to be street lights everywhere). They served a good breakfast in the morning. (Warning: there is no drinking water; fill your bottles at the mosque in town.)

IMG_20240413_073054 by bryandkeith on flickr

The Likya tombs of Teimiussa start right in the village of Üçağız

IMG_20240413_085745 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240413_090633 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240413_093114 by bryandkeith on flickr

and continue to the east.

IMG_20240413_091951 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240413_092101 by bryandkeith on flickr
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It’s a short walk on a road with little (no?) traffic to Simena.

IMG_20240413_094102 by bryandkeith on flickr

Simena has a fortress on a hill, but I spent my quick visit this time checking out more Likyan tombs. Ferda stayed at the çeşme at the bottom and bandaged her toe.

IMG_20240413_101337 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240413_101353 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240413_101222 by bryandkeith on flickr
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More Mediterranean views and another ancient site. See the pattern here?

IMG_20240413_111919 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240413_113050 by bryandkeith on flickr

This one is called Istlada, and we were the only ones there.

IMG_20240413_124844 by bryandkeith on flickr

It’s all about the Likyan tombs

IMG_20240413_123655 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240413_122817 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240413_122844 by bryandkeith on flickr

though we found the remains of a Byzantine church as well.

IMG_20240413_125454 by bryandkeith on flickr

One last stretch of trail before Demre:

IMG_20240413_144730 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240413_152957 by bryandkeith on flickr
Çayağzı

The ancient site of Andriake with its new, good museum is unfortunately poorly set up for through walkers. The only officially permitted entrance is from the east. We entered from the west, and the kind guard let us leave our bags at the museum, tour the site, and take care of the tickets upon departure to the east.

Here’s the (officially forbidden) trail in from the west:

IMG_20240413_161050 by bryandkeith on flickr

We were too tired and didn’t have enough time to properly visit the museum, but we did walk down the stairs to the Plakoma cistern. It’s underneath the paved square in the right of this photo:

IMG_20240413_171455 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240413_170741 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240413_171012 by bryandkeith on flickr

As it was getting late in the day, Ferda and I thought we might have to spend the night in Demre. We hadn’t yet checked the bus schedule to Antalya. At the entrance booth we asked for the local taxi phone number (to get to the Demre bus station). Kenan and Fatma overheard our conversation and offered to give us a ride all the way to our house in Antalya that evening. Wow, what great luck and a nice ending to our Likya Yolu walking adventures.

Of course, I have to finish with yet another Likyan tomb photo, this one at the Andriake parking lot.

IMG_20240413_175000 by bryandkeith on flickr

Tired of Likyan tombs? Think you’ve seen them all by now? Hardly! There are apparently 1085 of them in Turkey (but is that only the rock-cut type tombs?!).

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One Response to Likya Way walking: Kaş to Demre

  1. Mike Painter says:

    Fascinating! Who would guess that there would be so many?

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