Bicycle touring Thailand: Prachuap Khiri Khan to Chumphon

My favorite part of our second week of bicycle touring in Thailand was the food. It felt like it was one good meal after another. We spent two nights in Prachuap Khiri Khan. On our full day there we rode over to Ao Manao Beach.

20250207_112950 by bryandkeith on flickr

Here’s the coconut milk soup and seaweed soup lunch that they served us at our small table on the beach under the shade of pine trees.

20250207_125719 by bryandkeith on flickr

Back in the eponymous district capital that evening we ate dinner at a seaside restaurant — clams, snails, grilled grouper, and a plate of veggies. Really yummy.

IMG_20250207_171204 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20250207_191524 by bryandkeith on flickr
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We had time to visit two temples before leaving Prachuap Khiri Khan. One was the so-called “City Pillar Shrine”, a name I saw in other towns in Thailand. It looked Khmer/Angkor Wat style to me.

IMG_20250207_071925 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20250207_072416 by bryandkeith on flickr

On the small hill at the north end of Prachuap Khiri Khan is Wat Khao Chong Krachok. We rented a stick to keep the monkeys at bay, but that turned out to not really be necessary. The most exciting thing was the view down to next door Wat Thammikaram Worawihan.

looking down on Wat Thammikaram Worawihan by bryandkeith on flickr

Leaving Prachuap Khiri Khan we rode south passing Ao Manao Beach again. I was surprised to see how different it looked at high tide.

IMG_20250208_082134 by bryandkeith on flickr
20250208_081559 by bryandkeith on flickr

It was a short ride that morning to Waghor Aquarium which was definitely better than I expected. We saw some rather colorful freshwater fish.

IMG_20250208_092935 by bryandkeith on flickr
20250208_093123 by bryandkeith on flickr

There were some tanks showcasing endangered freshwater species from Thailand. In other tanks I was impressed by the many seawater species including groupers, sharks (including a black-tipped reef shark), butterflyfish, anemonefish, squirrelfish, surgeonfish, soldierfish, tang, sea stars, sea urchin, blue spotted ray, spotted eagle rays, a guitarfish, lobster (including a painted spiny lobster), horseshoe crabs, cardinalfish, anthias, and at least one triggerfish.

I think what we’re seeing here (in addition to two stars) is a mangrove horseshoe crab (Carcinoscorpius rotundicauda).

mangrove horseshoe crab (Carcinoscorpius rotundicauda)?, pin cushion star, and another star by bryandkeith on flickr

And on we went continuing south — nice riding, good food, comfortable hotels. It might not be so exciting in Thailand, but it sure is easy.

20250208_112743 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Ban Huai Yang
IMG_20250208_155215 by bryandkeith on flickr

We spent a night in Thap Sakae where we visited the temple and attached cemetery.

IMG_20250208_175101 by bryandkeith on flickr
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We enjoyed visiting the fairly new (1995?) five-story (?) hilltop temple, Wat Thang Sai.

20250209_094720 by bryandkeith on flickr
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With a couple flat tires, a lot of wind, and a fair bit of heat, that afternoon dragged on.

IMG_20250209_125714 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Ban Krut
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In Bang Saphan a friendly woman helped us get set up with a very welcome, late lunch of khao kha moo. We needed that rest and nourishment, and at the time I don’t think any of us realized quite how much we needed it.

IMG_20250209_145613 by bryandkeith on flickr

That afternoon we found another comfortable seaside hotel which unusually included breakfast. Not looking very Asian we were automatically served rather scary hot dogs and cole slaw for breakfast while other (Thai?) guests ate tasty-looking soup. This happened to us at least twice. If your room does include breakfast, try to find out the evening before what your options are and make your preference known. Communication was difficult.

IMG_20250209_173509 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20250210_083442 by bryandkeith on flickr

We’re still far north of the Muslim-majority provinces of southern Thailand, but we started to see mosques.

IMG_20250210_090649 by bryandkeith on flickr

I mentioned the palm oil and rubber tree plantations in my previous post.

20250210_095924 by bryandkeith on flickr
This is the part that the palm oil extractors want. by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20250210_100205 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Khao Dinsor Viewpoint

In addition to more mosques traveling south meant spicier food. This dinner at another comfortable seaside hotel was too spicy for Jack.

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I thought lunch the next day at the buffet in Saphli was excellent, but again Jack said (Ferda too this time!) it was too spicy.

IMG_20250211_112123 by bryandkeith on flickr

We spent two nights at nearby Cabana Beach (aka Hat Tung Wua Laen) — another nice hotel, more good food.

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One night was this cook-it-yourself bbq that reminded the three of us of Korea.

IMG_20250211_182745 by bryandkeith on flickr
20250211_182703 by bryandkeith on flickr

We liked that restaurant so much that we went back again for dinner the following evening, and I had this excellent raw shrimp salad. Ferda and Jack questioned the wisdom of eating raw shrimp on a beach in Thailand. I didn’t get sick.

IMG_20250212_185848 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Just south of where we stayed in Cabana Beach was this oddly gold Wat Thung Sai Thong.

IMG_20250212_115241 by bryandkeith on flickr

The following morning we pedaled into the next provincial capital and enjoyed an early lunch while a mechanic trued my wheels. I also had him put on new hoods and handlebar tape so it felt like I had a new bicycle!

IMG_20250213_103836 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20250213_103710 by bryandkeith on flickr

Ready to keep rolling south…

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One Response to Bicycle touring Thailand: Prachuap Khiri Khan to Chumphon

  1. Jennie Werner says:

    Yum!!!

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