Trad climbing at Kapuz Boğazı

Kapuz Boğazı is the name given to the area where the Güver Uçurumu Canyon widens out after the water is constricted in a narrow gorge.  You can reach from below easily by road via Aşağı Karaman Köyü.  I’ve come both by car and by bicycle.  The only way I know of to get there from the top would be floating in the stream.  There’s a small dam right at the mouth of the canyon so there’s not much current at the end of that trip.  The water’s quite cold even in August.

According to the climbing guidebook (which calls this area Kapuzbaşı), there are 11 trad routes in the area shown in this photo:

The thing to do here is to climb those two pinnacles and the crack that's visible behind and just to the left of the pinnacle on the right. by bryandkeith on flickr

The routes are on the two pinnacles and in the crack that’s (barely) visible behind and to the left of the pinnacle on the right.  Seb and I started with a 70m VI+ route to get to the top of the pinnacle on the right.  Here’s Seb making his way up to the summit:

DSCN1284 by bryandkeith on flickr

DSCN1288 by bryandkeith on flickr

After rappelling off the back side of that pinnacle you’re set up well to climb the crack that leads to the top of the cliff.  Seb and I chose the middle line, a 35m VI-.

DSCN1296 by bryandkeith on flickr

The climbing at Kapuz Boğazı is decent (maybe even exciting since the hardest moves didn’t seem to be protected well), and it’s always fun to go somewhere new.  I’d like to go back with a picnic and perhaps camping for a night or two.

DSCN1286 by bryandkeith on flickr

DSCN0956 by bryandkeith on flickr

DSCN0948 by bryandkeith on flickr

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