Bicycle touring the Baltics: The Upper Daugava to Vilnius

It wasn’t surprising that there weren’t so many bicycle tourists in Belarus. But then we crossed into Schengen, into the EU, into Latvia’s Upper Daugava River valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a marked bicycle route all the way to Daugavpils. It will be crowded with tourists, I’m sure.

20240807_172033 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240807_182101 by bryandkeith on flickr

The Daugava River forms the Latvia-Belarus border for the first ~20km that we pedaled west along the north side of the river. Getting late in the day we found a decent place to pitch the tents and hadn’t been there five minutes when the border patrol showed up and shooed us along. The man kindly pointed out that the special border patrol area ended at the Indrica Stream — “pass that and you can camp without a problem,” he advised.

It was only about 4km to that stream, but our road looked like this at times:

Just after crossing the Indrica Stream on a foot bridge.  That means we can camp 'cause we're no longer in the patrolled border zone. by bryandkeith on flickr

Just passed the Indrica Stream a kind farmer led us down to his land next to the river. “Camp here,” he offered. Fantastic, thank you. Welcome to Latvia.

IMG_20240808_084655 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240807_200243 by bryandkeith on flickr
The meanders of the Upper Daugava are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. by bryandkeith on flickr

It was good riding through here but more pretty forest than river views. The road was slower than we expected, but the expected crowds of tourists did not materialize.

20240808_094610 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240808_151246 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240808_154443 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240808_151910 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240808_154143 by bryandkeith on flickr

Krāslava is the only place that might count as a city. We camped at the quiet village of Tartaks.

IMG_20240808_115557 by bryandkeith on flickr
20240808_181300 by bryandkeith on flickr

The next day we were in Daugavpils. I was very excited to see the architecture.

IMG_20240810_160050 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240809_204437 by bryandkeith on flickr
20240809_205828 by bryandkeith on flickr

Look familiar? No, probably not, but it’s what we saw in Kars, what they called “Baltic architecture”, and sure enough, it exists in the Baltics! How fun is that.

Maybe food is more exciting? Latvia’s kartupelu pankukas:

kartupeļu pankūkas -- potato pancake things by bryandkeith on flickr

Or perhaps alcohol? Riga Black Balsam cured Catherine the Great.

IMG_20240809_121215 by bryandkeith on flickr

Well, Ebru, Ferda, and I enjoyed our short day in Daugavpils. We rode south, and I got a flat tire just before crossing into Lithuania where we found a brilliant lakeside campsite at ež. Baltas.

IMG_20240810_181851 by bryandkeith on flickr
20240810_204847 by bryandkeith on flickr
20240810_192041 by bryandkeith on flickr

We chatted with locals who came for a swim, and they returned with cucumbers and apples for us.

Soon we discovered what would plague us through Lithuania — too much traffic on the paved roads and too much washboard on the dirt roads (often with traffic as well). However, this part of Lithuania is full of lakes and rather pretty. It reminded Ferda and me of southern Sweden.

20240811_141946 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240811_122615 by bryandkeith on flickr
20240811_152628 by bryandkeith on flickr
20240811_183621 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240811_185331 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240811_164826 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240812_155403 by bryandkeith on flickr
Utena

At Paalksnė we found our favorite campsite of the trip and ended up staying two nights — the ducks, the butterflies, the trees, the clouds, the mushrooms, the dragonflies. On the second evening a local family brought us non-alcohol beer (really good), kvas, chocolate, biscuits, mineral water, and of course apples — always apples.

20240812_193407 by bryandkeith on flickr
20240813_104923 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240814_090439 by bryandkeith on flickr
20240813_171955 by bryandkeith on flickr

The next day was one of our longer days though, except for about 5km, we managed to stay off the main road. We had a couple church visits and late in the afternoon, using a translate app, asked a kind couple (in Russian) to camp in their large yard next to the forest. There were too many mosquitoes. A day or two earlier was the coldest of the trip (so far), but this morning (and the only time during the whole trip) we complained of being too hot as soon as the sun hit our camp!

IMG_20240814_132350 by bryandkeith on flickr
Giedraičių Šv. Baltramiejaus bažnyčia by bryandkeith on flickr
Giedraičiai
Paberžės Švč. Jėzaus Širdies bažnyčia by bryandkeith on flickr
Paberžė
IMG_20240815_073045 by bryandkeith on flickr

The historic center of Vilnius is another UNESCO site, but we never managed to find the city’s soul.

IMG_20240816_121502 by bryandkeith on flickr
National Museum of Lithuania by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240815_132526 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240818_104353 by bryandkeith on flickr

More Baltic architecture:

20240815_203142 by bryandkeith on flickr

Literatų g. with plaques celebrating Lithuanian authors (or authors who had something to do with Lithuania?) is one of Vilnius’ tourist attractions.

20240817_124839 by bryandkeith on flickr

The Gothic façade of St. Anne’s Church has remained unchanged for 500 years.

IMG_20240815_193107 by bryandkeith on flickr

There are other churches to be visited as well.

St. Paraskeva Church by bryandkeith on flickr
St. Paraskeva Church
IMG_20240816_124132 by bryandkeith on flickr
Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit
Church of St. Francis by bryandkeith on flickr
Church of St. Francis
Church of St. Catherine by bryandkeith on flickr
Church of St. Catherine
IMG_20240816_130610 by bryandkeith on flickr
Church of St. Casimir

When planning this trip, I had read about the painting of three-headed St. Casimir in one of the churches (perhaps the eponymous church above?), but my search was in vain until I happened until this copy at the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania:

St. Casimir; a copy of the original in Vilnius Cathedral Basilica of Sts Stanislaus and Vladislaus by bryandkeith on flickr

It’s not a three-headed saint at all! It’s a three-handed saint. Hahaha, kind of a disappointment. The Ducal Palace was worth a visit.

IMG_20240816_160417 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240816_143856 by bryandkeith on flickr

My favorite site in Vilnius was the university. I’ll start with two photos of the exterior,

IMG_20240816_133545 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240816_133424 by bryandkeith on flickr

but the best thing at Vilnius University were the Petras Repšys murals in the vestibule of the Lithuanian Philology Center.

IMG_20240816_140744 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240816_140454 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240816_140237 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240816_135905 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240816_140027 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240816_140511 by bryandkeith on flickr

Uh, yeah, what just happened there?

We said goodbye to Ebru. She flew back to Antalya to go back to work.

IMG_20240817_215604 by bryandkeith on flickr

But Özgür joined us in Vilnius so we’re still three as we continue our Baltic escapades.

20240815_192319 by bryandkeith on flickr
Ebru and Özgür overlapped for a couple days in Vilnius.
minsk_vilnius_123dpi by bryandkeith on flickr
Ebru rode with us from Minsk to Vilnius.
This entry was posted in Bicycle touring, Latvia, Lithuania and tagged , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

One Response to Bicycle touring the Baltics: The Upper Daugava to Vilnius

  1. Mike Painter says:

    Nice architecture!

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