Train touring Estonia: Valmiera to Narva

From Valmiera to Narva we traveled largely by train. The only bicycling was two days from Tartu to Viljandi and a little bit in the cities of Valga, Tallinn, and Narva. It was a good call as we would have really been pushing the fall weather this far north (60°) by the end of our trip (beginning of October).

The train from Valmiera in Latvia actually crossed the border to Valga in Estonia, and we had a little time to look around Valga/Valka (Estonia/Latvia) before catching another train to Tartu. Interestingly here on the border with Latvia we saw a red brick Catholic church:

Valga Pühavaimu kirik by bryandkeith on flickr
Valga Pühavaimu kirik

A week later in Narva on the border with Russia it was a red brick Orthodox church:

IMG_20240917_162921 by bryandkeith on flickr
Orthodox Church of Resurrection

Valga had some buildings to see,

IMG_20240909_154232 by bryandkeith on flickr
Valga Town Hall
House with Lion Heads, 1908 by bryandkeith on flickr
House with Lion Heads, 1908; restored, now used as housing
IMG_20240909_154604 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240909_154838 by bryandkeith on flickr

but my favorite thing in Valga (called Valka on the Latvian side of the border) was seeing the no-longer-in-use border post.

Thanks to Schengen a no longer in use border crossing by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240909_155257 by bryandkeith on flickr

We really enjoyed our time in Latvia so we were sad to be leaving.

sad to leave Latvia by bryandkeith on flickr

We took one train in Belarus and one train in Latvia, and for each of those we had to lift the bicycles up from the platform to the train. In Estonia, on the other hand, it was super easy. We just wheeled the bicycles straight onto the trains (for the three trips we took). You should, however, hang your bicycles (which requires removing all the bags) onto one of the provided slots. We’re not doing it here, but it becomes important when the train gets crowded.

IMG_20240909_171404 by bryandkeith on flickr

Ferda actually continued on that train all the way to Tallinn. I got off in Tartu (aka Dorpat) because I didn’t want to miss the museum at the Old Observatory. Before it opened, I had time to camp and poke around town.

IMG_20240910_072544 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240910_090352 by bryandkeith on flickr

I was most excited about the historic Struve Geodetic Arc, a set of ~250 triangles, used to measure the Tartu meridian from northern Norway to the Black Sea. The museum, however, highlights another of Struve’s accomplishments. He commissioned the world’s best telescope, made by Joseph v. Fraunhofer in Munich. Then, along with an excellent micrometer (also among the best in the world), Struve used the stellar parallax method to get the first accurate measurement of the distance to a star (from earth), in this case Vega. Here’s the telescope he used,

The telescope, made by Joseph von Fraunhofer in Munich, used to measure the distance to Vega. by bryandkeith on flickr

and here’s the tower that used to house the telescope.

IMG_20240910_100731 by bryandkeith on flickr

How exciting is that?!

It was a windy ride via Nõo to my camp at Oiu, my first solo bicycle touring since the mountains of Luzon. There were too many mosquitoes, but it was cool enough that I bundled up. What? How can there be both wind and mosquitoes? That’s not the first time I noticed this oddity in my notes. I also mention needing to resupply both my insect repellent and my post insect bite itch relief cream (diphenhydraminihydrochloridan?). Mosquitoes were my biggest complaint of this Baltic tour.

Ulge Park by bryandkeith on flickr

The next day was a cool day of riding — perhaps the coolest of the trip? — to get to Viljandi. I had time to look around town before getting on another train.

IMG_20240911_101039 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240911_124044 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240911_132726 by bryandkeith on flickr
Park Hotel, early 20th century, renovated in 2018 by bryandkeith on flickr

These water towers (?) were a common sight in Estonia:

IMG_20240911_141413 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240911_123708 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240911_094634 by bryandkeith on flickr

I met up with Ferda in Tallinn, and we spent a few days exploring another Baltic capital. It was the most touristy city we visited on this trip, but if you’re only going to visit one city in the Baltics, make it Rīga.

20240912_113625 by bryandkeith on flickr
20240912_105306 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240912_115737 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240912_120728 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240912_130111 by bryandkeith on flickr

You don’t, however, see medieval walls in Rīga.

Fat Margaret by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240914_152013 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240912_135732 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240914_132610 by bryandkeith on flickr

I do have lots of photos. It’s easy to see why tourists like Tallinn.

IMG_20240912_162727 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240912_132546 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240914_150101 by bryandkeith on flickr

After stalking Magellan I was excited to see Adam Johann von Krusenstern’s tomb in Toomkirik (a church) in Tallinn. He was the leader of the first Russian circumnavigation of the earth.

Adam Johann von Krusenstern's tomb by bryandkeith on flickr
20240912_110203 by bryandkeith on flickr

The only museum I visited in Tallinn was Kadriorg Palace, another Russian (Romanov) late-Baroque summer palace.

IMG_20240913_150632 by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240913_151148 by bryandkeith on flickr

That might look familiar, but, no, it’s not Rastrelli. It’s Nicola Michetti, another architect we haven’t seen the last of! You can also be forgiven for thinking Rastrelli when you see the opulence of the Main Hall, sometimes referred to as the “Baroque Pearl of the North”.

Main Hall, Kadriorg Palace, 1720-1729; sometimes referred to as the "Baroque Pearl of the North" by bryandkeith on flickr
IMG_20240913_132758 by bryandkeith on flickr
Diana (Russia) and Actaeon (Sweden), a 1636 Rembrandt was used as the model by bryandkeith on flickr

The museum’s collection included a lot of Russian and German portraits. For me the most exciting item was the porcelain Tlingit man from the 1880s series “Peoples of Russia”. We learned about the Tlingit in Ketchikan and Juneau, and here we are seeing them again in Tallinn!

Tlingit Man (Kolosh Man). From the series "Peoples of Russia." 1880s by bryandkeith on flickr

Our last train ride took us to Narva where we found another mosquito-infested camp.

IMG_20240917_183506 by bryandkeith on flickr

As in Tallinn I thought Narva’s Town Hall building was a church when I first saw it.

IMG_20240917_170825 by bryandkeith on flickr
Narva Town Hall
IMG_20240912_151304 by bryandkeith on flickr
Tallinn Town Hall

The main attraction in Narva are the forts on either side of the eponymous river, also called Нарва in Russia even though the town on the other side is Ivangorod (Ивангород).

20240917_165001 by bryandkeith on flickr
looking across into Russia by bryandkeith on flickr

More adventures await.

This entry was posted in Bicycle touring, Estonia, Latvia, Traveling and tagged , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

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