Erdoğan, kids, and development

It’s time for Erdoğan to go.  Power corrupts.  He’s been Prime Minister over nine years.  Tayyip, as he’s commonly and respectfully referred to on the street, was initially elected with the support of Turkey’s educated middle class by promising not to touch the country’s relatively liberal (for the Middle East) lifestyle.

Like the erosion of our personal privacy, small changes have occurred gradually perhaps barely perceptible on a day-to-day basis.

Erdoğan’s decade of power has been undeniably cruel to Turkey’s women.  A 2011 World Economic Forum report comparing the situation for women in 135 countries ranked Turkey 122 along side shining examples like Nigeria and Iran.  You can download the Global Gender Gap country rankings from a link on this page (March 2018 update: that link is dead. Here’s the 2017 Global Gender Gap report (pdf).).  Both the New York Times and Der Speigel have less quantitative reports (from 2012) on how women have fared during the last ten years in Turkey.

A week or two ago Sage and I stopped for some water on the side of the road in Tortum İlçe near a small mosque (mescit).  A man piled out of a minibus with 15 of his buddies.  There was not a woman in sight.  They were at home in Çorum with the kids while the men played tourists for the weekend.

After a bit of introductory banter, “do you have kids?” he asked.

“No.”

“Why?”

“Never wanted them.”

“Ah, Tayyip — you know Erdoğan, our Prime Minister?”  I nod.  “He wants our women to have 3-5 kids.”

Ha!  I had read this comment in the paper but hadn’t had the chance to talk to Turks about it.

“Is that a good policy?” I ask.

“Yes.”

“Why?”

“Turks love kids.”

“But what business is it of the government’s to tell us how many kids we should have?  Couples should decide for themselves.  It’s a bad policy. Why do you think it’s good?”  I would have liked to use some stronger words like sexist and oppressive, but my Turkish isn’t that good.

I had made him uncomfortable.  By this time a small crowd had gathered — partly to hear a foreigner speak Turkish, partly probably to hear a foreigner rant against their prime minister’s sexist remarks.

“Gelişme,” he was able to spit out before being overcome by a sudden need to use the facilities.

Development.  Like the Çoruh River Project.  It’s Turkey’s version of the US Army Corps of Engineers Colorado River disaster.  Seven dams on the lower Çoruh, hundreds of kms of canyons submerged.  Farms, orchards, and villages flooded.  Most displaced people flee to the cities.

Industrial Artvin by bryandkeith on flickr
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Trekking and biking the high Kaçkar

From Yusufeli it was a 3300m climb to Kaçkar Dağı Summit, the highest peak in the Eastern Black Sea Mountains (Doğu Karadeniz Dağları).  From rice paddies to snow and ice.  Sage and I took four days.  We biked up to Yaylalar at 1800m and walked the rest of the way to the summit.

DSCN0325 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Artvin’s worth the effort!

Turks like to travel, and many have travelled a lot in their own country.  When I ask about their favourite place to visit, their eyes light up, they smile, and they start gushing about Artvin.

Before we could get to Artvin, however, we had to climb another pass.  Actually Sage pointed out roads on the map that go around the mountains.  She’s never been on such a squiggly bike tour before where the apparent goal is to find the roads that climb the highest.

Don’t worry!  Just ’cause she showed me roads that don’t climb so much doesn’t mean we actually took them.  She likes the climbing as well, and after a couple warm-up descents on her new bike, she’s now barrelling down the hills faster than I am.

Sage, however, isn’t a big fan of lightning and gets particularly scared when the thunder and lightning crack simultaneously.  This phenomenon has been disappointingly difficult to avoid the last week.

Before the big climb to Artvin, we took a side excursion to Tortum Gölü and Tortum Şelalesi.  The long, skinny lake along the river was naturally dammed by a landslide somewhere between 200 and 2,000,000 years ago.  Geologists aren’t sure.  Part of the reason to visit was for Sage to see the tourist scene in Turkey.  She’s been a little surprised how few tourists we’ve seen.  Well, the lake had none, but there were groups of Turks picnicking at the waterfall.

DSCN0153 by bryandkeith on flickr
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The mountains near Tortum

Eight days of pedalling from Erzurum.  We’re in Uzundere, back on the main highway, about 80 km north of the city.  Sage and I rode a couple loops in Tortum İlçe.  Up and down, up and down.  I’m sure other touring cyclists have pedalled these roads, but “we’re off the main route” might be an understatement.

At the end of the Sage’s summer vacation, we’ll be back in Erzurum for her flight to Alaska.  Even when I sort of have a destination, I get easily distracted by tempting mountain passes.  Well, with no destination other than where we started, it’s hard to pass up a dirt track that climbs.  There seem to be plenty to choose from.

We did skip one, however.  A good dirt road headed NW from Yayla Geçidi to Uzundere.  Sage was the guinea pig and didn’t even ride 100m before the mud locked up her wheels.  We turned back and selected Plan B which set us up for the brilliant loop through Arılı, Meydanlar, Tipili, and Ballı.  The road we skipped is probably fine now.  We were there less than one hour after one of the most intense rain storms I have ever seen.

It’s rained almost every day since leaving Erzurum.  It’s mostly been light and refreshing rain.  Even with a couple deluges, I’ll take the rain over the heat that I endured a couple weeks ago.  Putting on my down coat, wool hat, and three pairs of pants two nights ago, it’s hard to believe it was so hot just two weeks ago.

Sage has plenty of bike touring experience riding big mountains in Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Mongolia, Russia, China, Tibet, Pakistan, and India.  However, this is her longest tour on her relatively new Bike Friday with 20-inch wheels.  The steep dirt road descent from Kireçli Geçidi probably isn’t the best place to get used to a new ride, but she handled it well.  A few days later Sage counted 15 switchbacks on the plunge through Ballı from the green alpine meadows to the desert-like steep canyons below.  She rode that as fast as I did.

The offers for çay continue and more often than not turn into meals with cheese, bread, olives, onions, tomatoes, and even juice.  In Çakıllı a couple gave us homemade helva.  It wasn’t sweet like regular helva.  It was made from stringy cheese, oil, and something to give it a brownish color.  Full of calories, I’m sure, and very tasty.  We were sent off with a bag of the leftovers, another common gesture.  We’re getting enough to eat.

Finally, I really must say a few words about Ballı.  This small village, built into a south-facing hillside, must be the original earthship village.  Since most roofs are covered with grass, it looks like a brown field from a distance.  The outer walls of the houses are made of stone and upon closer examination you can see skylights and windows poking out of the earth.  It was sort of eerie walking around and seeing tunnel-like entrances to an underground city.  At first I poked into one hole only to hear people talking and realize I was tramping around on their roof!  We did enter one underground home in Tipili, and it was surprisingly light inside.  Maybe they’re not moles after all.

Üç Kümbetler by bryandkeith on flickr
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It’s a big small world

Banu and Deniz were terrific hosts in Ankara.  I arrived about three days earlier than I had originally told Banu, and she had no problem with that.  Even after so many months on the road, I still have a very hard time estimating when I’ll arrive somewhere.  In this case it had been so hot that I was completely unmotivated to make any detours.  I just wanted to get somewhere where I could sit in the shade.

Banu and Deniz by bryandkeith on flickr
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