Bicycle touring Oita Prefecture: Usuki and the bamboo lantern festival (Takeyoi)

November is apparently bamboo lantern festival season in Oita with Usuki the first weekend, Hita the second weekend, and Taketa the third weekend.  During my planning for this Kyushu tour, my original route was too long, and one of the places I skipped to make the route shorter was Usuki.  However, I added it back in when I realized it was the only convenient place for us to catch one of these bamboo lantern festivals.  It was an excellent decision as our time spent in Usuki was certainly one of our Kyushu highlights.

With a bit of extra time we followed the coast around the peninsula NE of Usuki and just like coming into Nakatsu we stumbled upon a bicycle path, the Saganoseki Cycling Road.  It’s interesting that South Korea really touts their cycling infrastructure, but you don’t hear much about Japan.  Off the designated routes in Korea, the cycling conditions were pretty grim.  In Japan, however, we found great riding almost everywhere we went.  Japanese drivers are perhaps the best in the world.

Another unexpected bicycle path in Japan by bryandkeith on flickr

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Bicycle touring Oita Prefecture, the north: Hita, Nakatsu, Usa, Beppu

A continuous surprise during our tour in Japan was just how good the riding is.  I went to South Korea expecting great riding and found great food.  I went to Japan expecting great food and found great riding.

IMG_20191023_093938 by bryandkeith on flickr

The start of our convoluted route through Oita Prefecture was downhill through rice paddies to the pottery village of Onta.
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Bicycle touring Fukuoka Prefecture

Japan!

IMG_20191019_085730 by bryandkeith on flickr

On the ferry from Busan to Fukuoka Ferda and I met a young Japanese woman who was returning to her country after two years on the road.  One of the things that she missed most was nato.  Indeed it is very difficult to get nato outside of Japan, and I was looking forward to tasting it again as well.  So the first thing that Ferda ended up eating on her first trip to Japan was a nato roll!  A tad unusual, I imagine.  If you don’t know, well, nato is fermented soybeans which are kind of sticky and extremely stringy.  When you take nato with your chopsticks, there’s always a long thin string of nato paste that seems to stretch infinitely.  It’s interesting stuff.

Welcome to Kyushu!  After a visit to an ATM and the aforementioned nato rolls — both taken care of at a 7-11 — we started our one day of sightseeing in Fukuoka, Kyushu’s largest city.  It’s all fairly exciting your first day in Japan.

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Bicycle touring South Korea: Sangju to Busan

Wow, three weeks cycling in South Korea went by really quickly.  I’ll try to give a bit of the best and worst that we found during this short visit.

It’s easy for me to succinctly summarize the highlights: the food and the generosity of the people.  Local cyclists often approached us during breaks, offering small snacks, apples, coffee, energy bars.  As I mentioned in my last post, a group of motorcyclists even invited us to join their bbq lunch one day.  The most generous Korean we met turned out to be Mac who we met a couple days before arriving in Busan.  When we tried to stop at a small shop that turned out to be closed, Mac guided us into the nearby village, found a small restaurant, and treated the three of us to tasty bowls of noodles.

Lunch stop at a noodle restaurant by bryandkeith on flickr

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Bicycle touring South Korea: Yeoju to Hahoe

Leaving the Seoul metro area it was surprising how quickly we got into agricultural areas.  South Korea is very densely populated — of the 15 most densely populated countries in the world the only one larger than South Korea is Bangladesh (most are city states and/or islands).  However, it’s the cities that are super dense.  There really are agricultural areas and natural areas.

We mostly saw rice growing,

IMG_20191006_114757 by bryandkeith on flickr

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