Pulau Tomia — a snorkeler’s paradise in the Banda Sea

There’s a lot of hype about Wakatobi.  I suppose it started when Jacques Cousteau said that Wakatobi is “probably the finest diving site in the world”.  However, with hype comes high expectations.  My high expectations were slightly tempered by knowing that most of the hard coral at snorkeling depths in Wakatobi is dead.  However, it didn’t seem like that to me because I had done enough research to know where to snorkel.  As far as I know, we snorkeled at only the best spots on Pulau Tomia and chartered a boat one day to take us out to a “world-class reef”.

Pulau Tomia is the “to” in Wakatobi.  The other eponymous islands are Wangiwangi, Kaledupa, and Binongko.  Our first island in Wakatobi was Tomia, on a direct boat from Baubau, a 15-hour trip that some people would call an “adventure”.  I was very happy to have Dramamine.

The boat from Baubau to Pulau Tomia, a 15-hour journey by bryandkeith on flickr

Our boat came into Waitii, not Waha, where most of the accommodation is.
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A week of fun excursions from Baubau, Pulau Buton

We settled into a comfortable hotel in Baubau and made a few day trips.  Our first excursion was to Pulau (Island) Makassar, a short (15 minute) boat ride from Baubau.  We walked through a residential area and made our way to the beach, Pantai Lakorapu.

20180520_102255 by bryandkeith on flickr
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From southwest Turkey to Southeast Sulawesi; did we find Nirvana?

Antalya-İstanbul-Jakarta-Makassar ended up being a 26-hour airplane journey (home to hotel).  Ferda and I spent less than 48 hours in Makassar and boarded the Pelni ship KM. Sinabung for what ended up being a 19-hour journey (hotel to hotel) from Makassar to Baubau.  We were still tired and disoriented from the long days of travel, jet lag, tropical climate, new country, new food, new language, but we correctly assumed that Baubau would be a better place than Makassar to rest a few days and get our bearings.

20180514_195511 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Trebenna Antik Kent

It was when I was looking through these photographs of Trebenna Antik Kent that I found the lost blog, the last one I published, the one about our long day on Geyiksivrisi, a trip we started from Trebenna Antik Kent.  I didn’t have any photos of the ruined city from that trip, but I found these ones (below) from the first time I visited Trebenna Antik Kent when I rode up from Antalya by bicycle.  I also once walked up from Kezban’s Guesthouse, but that was a foggy, rainy day, and I didn’t take any photos.

Trebenna Antik Kent is another old Roman city near Antalya.  The setting is nice — at the foot of Geyiksivrisi, above the climbing crags of Geyikbayırı.  The site gets few visitors because there’s not so much to see.

The closest climbing crag to Trebenna Antik Kent is named after the old city.  It’s quite a popular climbing area, in part because it’s almost always in the shade.  Many more people have climbed at Trebenna than have visited the old city.  I suppose the old city is now just a place for goats and turtles to hang out.

DSCN1333 by bryandkeith on flickr
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A long day on Geyiksivrisi

Oops. I wrote this post in June 2016 but somehow forgot to publish it. Here it is, two years late…

Fatma’s been excited about climbing Geyiksivrisi for some time now.  We had a date set a couple months ago, but something came up, and we cancelled.  This week Barış and Tüğçe invited Fatma, Ferda, and me for dinner, and we made another plan for Geyiksivrisi.  Tüğçe was super keen on camping so we decided to go up the night before and camp at Trebenna Antik Kenti.  That ended up working really well.

Geyiksivrisi by bryandkeith on flickr

We rented a car and picked up Tüğçe as she got off work Saturday afternoon.  We were up at the Trebenna ruins in time to put our tents up and take a quick tour around the city before it got dark.  There’s quite a nice view of the cliffs at Geyikbayırı from the outcrop where the ruined city sits.  We had some good wine from Foça and a wonderful camp fire.
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