Deep water soloing in the center of Antalya

It’s been over a year and a half since I first started climbing at the falez between Ramada and Talya hotels in the center of Antalya.  It’s the same area where I usually swim.  When I first started swimming here, I’d look up at the rocks thinking that it’d make great climbing.  One day I brought a mask and snorkel and checked out the rocks below the water.  It must be over 100 meters of traverse with only three places where you have to worry about rocks in the water if you fall.  This is “deep water soloing” — climbing without ropes; if you fall, you fall into the sea.

DSCF0138 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Cycling in Holland: Zevenaar to Aalsmeer

Five years ago Topher and I spent a month cycling in the Netherlands.  Since then I’ve had a number of cycle-tourers ask, “how could you possibly spend so long in the Netherlands?  I crossed it in two days on my bicycle.”  Well, it’s not really such a small country — in area, twice the size of Antalya or New Jersey — and there’s a lot to see.  It was great to be back.

It's not totally obvious in the photo, but this canal is higher than the surrounding land by bryandkeith on flickr

Holland is well-run and clean, the people are super, and the cycling facilities are the best in the world.  It really is such a joy to cycle there, almost always on car-free bicycle paths.  When there are road crossings, the drivers are always watching for cyclists.  As Gertjan pointed out to me years ago, most of the drivers are also frequent cyclists.  They understand that car drivers ought to respect cyclists.  Doesn’t sound like rocket science, but respect is a rare trait in the world’s motorists.
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Good cycling in heavily populated western Germany?

After leaving the Rhine Gorge we came quickly to what looked on the map like a pretty ugly section of the tour, one big city after another — Bonn, Köln, Düsseldorf, Essen.  Then we’d be in Holland.  However, I was quite surprised.  This section was much better than I expected.  Germany does an excellent job of having green areas right up to and even inside the big cities, and their recommended bicycle routes of course take advantage of these forests and parks.  Coming into Düsselforf, for example, looks like continuous built-up city on my map, but we were on pleasant paths through parks and the university campus right into the center of the city.  In Essen we coasted straight down to the central train station, and the route into Köln followed the parks along the Rhine for many kms into the city center.

In Köln we stayed with our second and last Warm Showers host of the trip, Agathe, and her boyfriend, Kamal, both from France.  Agathe came to Germany with the goal of learning German, but she speaks French at home and English at work so progress is slower than she expected.  She’s travelled some by bicycle in South America (Peru and Brazil?), but what I found fascinating about her travels was her way of finding accommodation.  She travelled solo and before dark would simply find someone and ask if she could spend the night at their house.  She met lots of people and often travelled in places where she didn’t know the language.  Seems like that would be incredibly tiring.  I’ve never heard of anyone else travelling the way Agathe did.

Agathe and Kamal by bryandkeith on flickr

In our rest day in Köln (where we had the first rain of the trip) we visited the city’s huge cathedral, another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
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The Rhine Gorge — a disappointment?

The highlight of a Rhine River bicycle tour might be the Rhine Gorge, aka Upper Middle Rhine Valley, the whole of which is yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site.  If there’s an all-purpose worldwide travel bucket list, it’s these World Heritage Sites.  There’s such a variety of nature, culture, and history.  You’d sure learn a hell a lot about the world if you were to visit them all.

Ferda and I weren’t always very good about sticking with Rhine during our tour.  Just a day after joining the Rhine in Basel, we were already tired of it and went into the wine villages in the hills south of Freiburg.  Because of flood control measures in that area, there weren’t any villages right by the river, making the route a little monotonous.  In some flat areas we cut straight across instead of doggedly sticking to the Rhine meanders.  There are actually few meanders and little natural left about the Rhine.  It’s been such an important transport route in Europe that the river’s been straightened and tamed for centuries in order to ease navigation.

DSCN8925 by bryandkeith on flickr
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The Rhine River without Krista

My friend, Krista, has planned on a Rhine cycle tour for years.  When she and Kurt suggested we do it together, it sounded great.  Krista described it as quite flat, lots of castles, lots of good food, and a little riding so you can keep enjoying all that good food.  Super, let’s do it, I said.  Well, Ferda and I found cheap tickets to Geneva and decided July would be perfect for the Rhine tour — except that I hadn’t consulted Krista, and that’s the hardest time for her to get away from work.  So, the Rhine was really Krista’s idea, but because of my poor communication, we’re here without her and Kurt.

The plum wine that the Romanian woman who worked at the Chinese restaurant in ?? gave us by bryandkeith on flickr
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