Bicycle touring Crete: a short loop west from Heraklion

The ferry from Santorini arrived in Heraklion at 3am. Charming. Oliver and I pedaled out of the city and slept for a couple hours in the large paved Knossos parking lot. Also charming. In addition, of the month I spent in Greece, the hottest days were my first two days on Crete with high temperatures of 38°C. What a way to start bicycle touring on Crete! Don’t be discouraged, however. I cycled about a week on Crete, and I quite liked it.

Knossos is a Minoan palace. Excavation started in 1900 when archaeologists knew a lot less than they do now. Restoration/reconstruction, apparently conducted largely by a fellow named Evans, was, to put it generously, haphazard. For example, repainted Minoan artwork is not necessarily (ever?) in the room where it was actually discovered. This makes visiting the site kind of strange because I wasn’t sure what to believe. Also, it was too hot and too crowded.

IMG_20240613_091155 by bryandkeith on flickr
Continue reading
Posted in Bicycle touring, Greece | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Greek islands with Oliver by ferry and bicycle: Kos, Astypalea, Amorgos, Santorini

For some time Oliver has been saying that he’d like to go on a bicycle tour. The timing was perfect for him, but I warned him that it wouldn’t be easy — unpleasant ferry times and too much heat. Who would want to cycle the Greek islands in June anyway? Well, I had plans to meet my cousin and his family in Crete so why not make a little trip out of it? It was Oliver’s first bicycle tour, and what turned out to be difficult for him wasn’t the heat but the hills. The climbs were not very long or very steep (for me), but it’s quite different if you’re not used to it.

IMG_20240602_192957 by bryandkeith on flickr

We started with a bus from Antalya to Bodrum, camped one night, and got the ferry the next morning to Kos. We spent about 12 hours in Kos, but that was our choice. Within Greece the reasonably-priced ferries (Blue Star and similar) seem to run once or twice a week so you take what you can get. As an example there are daily ferries between Santorini and Crete for about 93 euro/person, or you wait for Blue Star (on Wednesday or Friday only) for 16 euro/person. On the other hand, the ferries between Turkey and Greece mostly run daily and are all expensive so we could have stayed in Kos as many days as we liked (by arriving earlier).

Continue reading
Posted in Bicycle touring, Greece, Turkey | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Auto-touring Konya: Fasıllar, Kilistra, Çatalhöyük, and the provincial capital (merkez)

To get to the start of our Zengibar Yolu walk Ahmet, Ferda, and I drove from Antalya to Konya. A number of things seemed familiar to me. We drove the new Derebucak road which I had bicycled before it was turned into a highway. We had a sazan balığı (carp) lunch in Beyşehir, a stop Ferda and I enjoyed before on a bicycle tour. On that same tour Ferda and I were disappointed that Çatalhöyük was closed. We had a little better luck this time. And of course we’d been to Konya before.

Just like last time the fish tasted better than it looked.

IMG_20240428_150527 by bryandkeith on flickr

Above the modern village of Fasıllar (ancient Misthia (aka Mistea, aka Claudiocaesarea)) we find this 70-ton Hittite (from the 14th century BCE) carved block with a couple lions.

Continue reading
Posted in Traveling, Turkey | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

Zengibar Yolu walking: Ulupınar to Bolay Yaylası

where we visit the ancient cities of Isaura and Astra

This four-day walking tour was more about mountain scenery and socializing than archaeological sites. I forget now how we learned about this tour. Ferda and I don’t follow this stuff closely, but Ahmet does so he probably told us about it. The Konya Büyükşehir Belediyesi among others sponsored the trip with the goal, I guess, of promoting tourism in Konya, specifically in Bozkır, Hadim, and Taşkent ilçeleri which don’t get a lot of tourists. I had been before to Bozkır on my bicycle and imagined that Hadim and Taşkent would have beautiful mountains as well. Indeed they do.

IMG_20240502_135611 by bryandkeith on flickr
Continue reading
Posted in Trekking, Turkey | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Likya Way walking: Kaş to Demre

where we visit the ancient cities of Antiphellos, Sebeda, Apollonia, Aperlai, Teimiussa, Simena, Istlada and Andriake.

What a fantastic area. I had been through here at least three times before. Even with that list (above) of eight sites that we visited this time, I’d still like to come back to this region by bicycle by a different route that links up at least eight more sites that would be new to me. And it’s not just about old rocks. The views are nice too.

We started with an afternoon in Kaş which is ancient Antiphellos. The theater has been thoroughly restored.

IMG_20240410_173221 by bryandkeith on flickr
Continue reading
Posted in Trekking, Turkey | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment