Art, history, and rain in Mexico City

In Mexico an Indian nut is a cashew.  In Turkey an Indian nut is a coconut.  In English turkey is both a bird and a country.  That same bird in Turkish also means India.  If you feel cheated by wasting your time reading this drivel, you should stop now.

In Germany earlier this week I used two of the three sentences I know in German: “ich sprechen kein deutsch” and “ein bier bitte”.  Even though it wasn’t even noon yet, I used the latter sentence twice.

Maybe you’ve figured out by now: I’ve been hopping back and forth across the Atlantic again.  I had a direct flight from Antalya to Berlin where I spent a wonderful evening with Antje at the Greek restaurant near her house.

Antje at the yummy Greek restaurant near her house. by bryandkeith on flickr

Via a three hour stop in Miami I was next in Mexico City where I spent about three weeks with Isaac.  We never ate Greek food, but we enjoyed heaps of tacos and even had an evening of white cheese and rakı to show him how the Turks imbibe.
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A short sea kayak tour in Kekova

Turkey ought to be full of super places to sea kayak.  It probably is.  Look at a map of the SW coast, and you’ll see endless coves and peninsulas.  There is, however, little sea kayaking actually going on.  This seems largely for two reasons:

  1. high taxes on imported recreational equipment make kayaks very expensive
  2. stupid rules (by the coast guard?)

The tax problem can be overcome with money which is how Ferda and I managed to get out for a half-day tour from Üçağız.  However, because kayaks are so expensive, there are few places that have them and of those places few are willing to let the kayaks go without a guide.  What this means is: don’t get too excited looking at that incredible map of Turkey’s SW coast.  Finding a kayak can be very difficult.

DSCN8274 by bryandkeith on flickr

The stupid rules, however, are even more troubling.  Turkey is full of stupid rules.  Many of them prohibit entering just about every body of water you come across away from the coasts.  In this case the rules prevent kayakers from using the coastal water (in some areas) because kayaking is dangerous.  I am not kidding.  That is the reason given.

They let cars in residential neighborhoods, and they won’t let kayakers in the sea next to Antalya.  They claim there’s too much motor boat traffic, making it dangerous to kayak.  Yet — I love this — you’re allowed to swim in the same area.  This summer I was swimming every morning in Antalya.  I was learning how to swim — how to breathe, how to move in a straight line.  I tried to stay near the cliffy shore, but sometimes I’d look up and find myself out in the sea, sometimes even near boats.  Once or twice it felt perhaps dangerous.  You can swim, but not kayak!?

Another place you’re not allowed to kayak is in the Kekova/Kaleüçağız area.  In this case, however, the caveat is without a guide.  The same reason was given here as in Antalya: there’s too much motor boat traffic making it unsafe for kayaking.  Our guide warned us: this is the high season; you’ll need to be very careful of the boat traffic.  Well, crowded for Turkey is not crowded like we’re used to in many parts of the world.  Sure, there were boats, but it felt most dangerous when we were swimming at our designated swim stop, not when we were in the kayaks.

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A summer jaunt up Tunç Dağı

My first walk up Tunç was last April with Cemalettin, Ahmet, and Mehmet.  We had a casual pace on the snow and took 4.5 hours to reach the summit.  About a month (or two?) ago Ferda and I walked up Tunç on a cool summer day.  Since she has little mountain experience, I planned on quite some time for the round trip and was a little worried when we set off as late as we did.  I think it was early afternoon.

DSCN8078 by bryandkeith on flickr

Warning, *rant* — one would think I ought to be able to simply look at my photos and know exactly when we started.  Well, as I write this, I’m sitting in Mexico City, and when I open my photo program (shotwell), it seems to convert the displayed photo time to my current time zone — as if I care what time it was where I am now when I took my photos!  Ugh, how stupid is that.  Additionally, (since I’m ranting) there’s some strange disconnect so that when I upload my photos to flickr, the time changes by three hours — but not always.  🙁  Ah, computers. *end of rant*

Anyway, in the end it didn’t matter when we started because Ferda walked up Tunç in about 100 minutes.  Yes, in about one-third of the time it took us mountaineers last spring!  Ferda and I spent over an hour on the summit and took about the same time to descend as to ascend.

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Sandcastles, cedars, and sushi

From reading this blog, you might be led to believe that every excursion from Antalya is super.  Well, I have had a couple busts lately.

The first was a case of unfulfilled expectations.  Over a year ago in Antalya I first heard about the annual International Antalya Sand Sculpture Festival held on the beach in Lara.  Their advertising makes it look like quite the event.  I was sorry I didn’t get a chance to go last year so I made more of an effort to go this year.  Actually I think all it took was a friend suggesting and me agreeing.  Not a huge effort.

Well, “festival” makes it sound like you might see people making sand sculptures.  Ha, they put them together in the spring, spray them with something to protect from wind and rain, and leave them there for eight months collecting money for unsuspecting tourists.  The entire area is quite small — you have to make a bit of an effort to spend more than 30 minutes.

Feeling like a couple high school students we snuck in a bottle of wine and got our 30 minutes worth.  The highlight, I suppose, was afterward: sitting on the beach next to the water with a bit of a breeze finishing said bottle of wine.

Olmec sculpture by bryandkeith on flickr
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Backpacking in Aladağlar

To celebrate the end of Ramadan I met Sabiha at the dolmuş/ilçe bus station in Niğde for a week of backpacking in Aladağlar (sometimes translated as Crimson Mountains; maybe a couple of the photos will show why).  It was an overnight bus from Antalya (9.5 hours) but only about a five hour trip for Sabiha coming from Ankara.  We took the Çamardı dolmuş as far as Çukurbağ and then a tractor a little ways into the mountains to a base camp where we started our 6-day hike.

DSCN7784 by bryandkeith on flickr
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