Kurban Bayramı — Turkish Thanksgiving?

Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday in the US.  Sure, a lot of turkeys are sacrificed, but it’s really all about a time to get together with friends and family and eat and drink and talk.  My first experience spending Kurban Bayramı with a Turkish family reminded me of US Thanksgiving.  Here, however, we give thanks for not being a sheep (or a goat or maybe even a cow).  Another difference is that there’s not as much as drinking in Turkey.  Indeed one friend told me that in his family they ate a chicken on Kurban Bayramı because they wanted to drink rakı with their holiday meal.

Chickens and rakı?  That probably needs some explanation.  Kurban Bayramı in English is Sacrifice Holiday or something like that.  It’s a religious holiday in origin celebrated 40 days after the end of Ramadan or something like that.  The animal (a sheep, goat, or cow) is sacrificed as an offering to Allah (I’m really going out on a limb here) and since Muslims aren’t supposed to drink alcohol, they’re particularly not supposed to drink alcohol with the sacrificed animal.  Following this logic (is there any logic to follow here at all?) if you want to drink alcohol with your animal, make it a chicken.  I suppose a pig would work just as well, but good luck finding a pig in Antalya.

I met Hatice in the morning at the covered pazar near her house.  I think it was her brother-in-law, Tuncay, or maybe her father who was at the pazar at 4am to get in line for the butcher.  They bargained for the sheep (one for Tuncay and one for Hatice’s father) and got tags 25 and 26, indicating the order for the butcher.  It was after 9am by the time the butchers were slitting the throats of our sheep.  The sacrifice is done with such little ceremony that I wonder why they bother.  Most of the Turks I know, including Hatice, think it’s a gruesome, out-dated practice sort of like what the Mexicans now think of bull-fighting.  Once again PETA wasn’t there.

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Eight hours in Düsseldorf

On my trip west Air Berlin was nice enough to give me an overnight in Berlin where I was able to see Antje.  On the way back, however, it was eight hours in Düsseldorf which I wasn’t really looking forward to.  It turns out, however, that getting from the Düsseldorf airport to the city center is quite easy.  Sitting across from me on the train into the city center were three Russians fortifying themselves with vodka at 8am.  Had I known how cold and deserted the city would be at this early hour I might have asked to join them.

DSCN9025 by bryandkeith on flickr
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50 years in San Miguel de Allende

The real reason for my trip across the Atlantic was to help my parents celebrate their 50th wedding anniversary.  We all met in San Miguel de Allende, a city in Guanajuato that none of us except Elise had ever been to before.  San Miguel de Allende isn’t big but has an incredible art scene.  Its historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, attracting wealthy weekend visitors from Mexico City, and the city houses “one of the largest American communities in Mexico,” according to Wikipedia.  Indeed at the Friday Art Walk in Fábrica La Aurora it seemed that most of the artists were from the US.

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Pueblo Mágico Bernal

In spite of the rain we tried to get out climbing a couple of my weekends in Mexico City.  One weekend we went nearby to Los Dínamos, a national park in steep mountains that is literally at the edge of the city, not far from Copilco.  By the time we drove up there (stopping on the way for tamales and coffee of course), walked up to the damp/wet crag (there was some discussion as to whether it was mojado or simply húmedo), and climbed a pitch or two, it was raining for real.  We descended for beers and a yummy lunch, making it, I guess, a successful day.

A weekend or two later, however, we lucked out with the weather.  Or rather we drove far enough north of the city to get away from the storms.  We started on the way to Aculco but en route decided to drive even farther to Bernal (Querétaro).

Bernal is one of the popular Pueblos Mágicos.  It’s cute enough to walk around, but the attraction for climbers is La Peña de Bernal, one of the tallest monoliths in the world.  Wikipedia claimed it was the world’s tallest monolith until I corrected the entry (!); it seems like both Gibraltar and Pão de Açúcar in Rio are taller monoliths.  Isaac, Bigotes (Sergio), Fernanda, Ayex, and I climbed it in four pitches.  The first belay was hanging which makes one feel like a real climber once in a while.

DSCN8687 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Ciclovía en DF

Unfortunately it takes too long to get out of Mexico City for a bike ride in the mountains or forests, but every Sunday there’s a ciclovía.  One Sunday a month they do a significantly longer route.  When Nashelly and I went, it was the short version which meant that Reforma was closed to motor vehicles from the south end of Guadalupe (the main pilgrim route to La Basílica) to Pereférico Norte at the south end Bosque de Chapultepec.  It’s not a huge distance, but I think we spent five or six hours riding there and back.

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