Backpacking, of sorts, in Bolu

I don’t race.  I don’t really like races, especially when I’m one of the participants.  I ran the Bolder Boulder once.  I even got talked into the Grand Traverse ski race and then decided that anyone who would sign up for a race like that twice (Scott, Wendy) really is a masochist.

So it was with more than a bit of trepidation that I agreed to participate in DASK ADAM (Anadolu Dağ Maratonu) this year.  It was only later that I found out that the M stands for “marathon”.  I sort of tried to back out sending a bit of a cryptic message to Banu asking if the registration was already taken care of.  Oh, yes, yes, she replied, we’ve arranged transportation from Ankara as well!  She took my concern as excitement.  There was no weaseling out of it.

In spite of the name, DASK ADAM is more of an orienteering race than a marathon.  If you don’t make any navigation mistakes, it is very easy to walk the (medium-length) course at a casual pace and still finish within the time limit.  Of course that one caveat — no navigation mistakes — is the kicker.  Of the 18 teams in our category (men doing the medium-length course) six teams did not finish.

DSCN7415 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Erdoğan (again); some protests and some biking

Erdoğan, out, git, istifa.  Power corrupts.  It’s time to go.  If it sounds familiar, it’s because I wrote the same thing about a year ago.  Or maybe it’s because you’ve been paying attention to the thousands in the streets of Turkey’s cities in what’s being called the Gezi Park protests (Gezi Park eylemleri).

DSCN6845 by bryandkeith on flickr
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A fantastic week on the Frig Yolu

Oh my gosh, every time I travel in Turkey, I come across something amazing.  From Kütahya instead of heading straight to Eskişehir (NE), I decided to head SE and follow the Frig Yolu for a bit.  In English the Frig people are called Phrygians I think, but since no one’s ever heard of them, I’ll stick to the more easily pronounceable Frig.

DSCN6522 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Restful days in Kütahya (and Antalya!)

Kütahya was a super rest.  Through couchsurfing I met another American, Taryn, who welcomed me to her spacious downtown apartment.  In a year or so in Turkey I’ve met very few Americans.  I’ve certainly spoken with Taryn more than with any other American in Turkey.  She’s been here about half a year, and it was great to discuss and compare things we like and dislike about Turkey and the US.  Coming from Houston to Kütahya she loves being able to walk everywhere and having shops nearby.  Indeed, disastrous city planning in the US is probably the issue that bothers me the most about returning to live there.  Turkey’s no shining example of livable cities (and Erdoğan’s thoughtless development projects have made things worse in Turkey’s larger cities), but they do a better job than the US.

DSCN6416 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Great camping and lots of climbs through Denizli, Uşak, and Kütahya

I’ve mostly been using village roads to connect the provincial capitals of Antalya, Denizli, Uşak, and Kütahya.  Another week of riding after Pamukkale, and I made it to Kütahya.  By bus from Antalya to Kütahya is 381km.  It took me 15 days of riding, and they certainly didn’t feel as lazy as that might sound.

Pamukkale, in the Menderes River Valley, is low (200m?) so I knew I’d have an effort to get back to the Anatolian Plateau (generally 800-1000m in Uşak).  It was done in one quick push from Güney Şelalesi (waterfall) to Güney İlçe where I happened upon the Pamukkale Winery, Turkey’s 3rd largest, according to my tour guide there.  At the end of the free tour he gave me two bottles of wine!  I’m used to be invited to tea in these villages, but, wine, well, that’s a special treat.  My guide also assured me that each of Turkey’s three largest wineries get all their grapes from Güney.  He called it “Turkey’s Napa” (sorry, France).

DSCN6241 by bryandkeith on flickr
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