Crossing from Yucatán to Campeche took us from milpas to agribusiness. I hardly expected that such a straight line on the map could delineate such a difference on the ground. If you don’t know what a milpa is, think Milagro Beanfield War — small-scale, probably family-run agriculture, no irrigation. They often grow corn and squash together, not bad for the soil, but it requires harvest by hand, according to Jack.
The Mennonites run the agribusiness. Putting together a few different stories, I can surmise that the Campeche State government invited the Mennonites here from Chihuahua a couple generations ago. There’s land, they said; water too. And why not? Mexico imports food, and Mennonites do a surprisingly good job with the harsh, dry, high land in Chihuahua. They’re an insular group, but when members decide to leave the culture/religion, they’re welcomed into the nearby communities as Mexicans, according to the tamale makers I talked to in Hopelchén.
The straight line on the map didn’t affect the Mayans so much apparently. We still passed archaeology sites, visited a couple, and were particularly impressed with Edzná, the biggest Mayan tourist draw in the State of Campeche. The ball court was the smallest I’ve seen, and the five-story building was rather impressive.
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