Monarch Butterfly Day!!! by Wendy

This is an e-mail that Wendy wrote just after spending the day with the butterflies, a couple days before Christmas.  I’ll only add that the “small city” is Zitácuaro, Michoacán’s third largest city. The reserve area we visited is called Cerro Pelón. Our trout lunch was in Macheros. I added the photos too.  Bryan

Hola from a small city somewhere in Mexico!

We saw the monarch butterflies today and I could come home right now a happy girl!  It was everything I dreamed it would be!

DSCN2885 by bryandkeith on flickr

We chose to go to the least touristy of the five butterfly reserve areas: partly because it was the newest and had the best preserved habitat (no logging), and partly because… who likes crowds?  When we arrived at 8am after an hour of minivans and taxis, nobody was there.  No tourists, no employees, and NO ANNOYING SOUVENIR SELLERS!  In Spanish, the sign said it was open 9am – 6pm.  The same sign, translated in English, said 8am – 4pm.  It also said we must hire a guide.  Since there was nobody to pay, we started hiking up the trail – alone.

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Playing tourist in Mexico City and Puebla

Virgin de Guadalupe is about as Mexican as you can get.  You see her image all over Mexico, in houses, in shops, on buses, even burned into people´s cloaks.  The most important shrine in Mexico is the Basilica of the Virgin of Guadalupe.  People come from all over the country, by bus, by bicycle, and on foot to celebrate their patron saint´s special day, December 12.

I joined them for the last five kilometers as I walked from San Juan de Aragón to La Basílica.  It´s not unusual to carry an image of the Virgen of Guadalupe during the pilgrimage.

DSCN2322 by bryandkeith on flickr

Of course if you didn´t bring your own virgin, they were plenty of places to buy one, but images of La Virgin weren´t the only thing for sale.  There was lots of food, including local specialties like chapulines.
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A hop across the Atlantic — to Mexico

Five days from Antalya to Mexico City, the magic of air travel. I took an overnight bus from Antalya to Ankara and had the chance to see Sabiha, Banu, and Deniz during my day in Ankara.

Very early the next morning (@2:30am without having slept) I took the bus to the airport only to learn hours later that my flight to Munich was cancelled. We had passed immigration and were waiting at the gate when this decision was made.

Back through immigration they cancelled the exit stamp, and hours later I was rebooked through Istanbul and Paris. Back to Ankara I went to Sabiha´s only to discover I had left my camera in her car the night before. What a lucky bugger I am. Just a few days earlier I was similarly lucky: I had backed up all my files to the internet and the very next day my computer died for good (bozuldu, descompuso).

My next flight out of Ankara was late.  I raced through the Istanbul airport, they reopened check-in for me, and I made the connection to Paris.  Late that night in Paris I was excited to see the Aeromexico plane and knew I´d easily make that connection.

Ha, ha!  Overbooked and I didn´t have a seat.  26 hours in Paris.  So that´s how I found myself walking through the center of Ankara one day, the center of Paris the next day, and the center of Mexico City the day after that!  I´ll probably never do something quite like that again.

DSCN2162 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Four days in Kapadokya

I completed another month of Turkish lessons.  I passed the two-day five-part test and can now continue on to the B level classes!  Woo hoo.  Whether I’ll actually do that remains to be seen.  Instead of sticking around for the next course I took off just after my exam for a long weekend in Kapadokya (Cappadocia) with Ferda.

A few weeks ago I compared Vardzia in Georgia with Kapadokya.  That comparison was giving way too much kudos to Vardzia.  Vardzia is one underground city set in a pretty canyon.  Kapadokya covers a large area which includes over 200 underground cities (perhaps 10 of which are open to tourists), hundreds of churches carved out of the rocks, and countless valleys full of sculpted rock pinnacles the likes of which I’ve only seen elsewhere in Utah.

Being December we kept an eye on the Kapadokya weather the week before leaving Antalya.  In our four days in Kapadokya it went from short sleeve weather to snow.

DSCN1361 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Antalya again, Turkish again

Back in Erzurum, back in Hopa, back in Akhaltsikhe, back in Borçka, back in Bayburt, back in Ankara, back in Antalya.  I feel like I’m doing circles.  I do intend to start bicycle touring again.  Soon.  Maybe.  For now I’m stuck again in Antalya, studying Turkish.  Again.

Antalya apparently has a magic magnetic attraction.  “Cennet” (heaven) is how the Turks describe it, but foreigners know it too.  Antalya is the world’s third most visited city counting by international tourist arrivals.  Whoa, was I surprised to learn that!  It’s certainly the smallest city on the top 10 list.

DSCN1262 by bryandkeith on flickr
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