Trekking in Yenice, Karabük — more fall colors

east_turkey by bryandkeith on flickr

There you have it.  Four months of touring on one compact map.  I’ll call this chapter of my tour The Pontic Alps Explorer.  From Erzurum to Bayburt (with detours).  Haha, I really did start this tour in Erzurum after taking a train from Ankara with Sage, and I really did end this tour in Bayburt from where I took a bus back to Ankara.  And at one point during this serpentine adventure I actually pedalled directly from Erzurum to Bayburt in about a day and a half!

So if you want to know how to turn 10 hours of cycling into four months of touring, study this map (above).

A break from the bike seemed like a good idea (even though really I’m quite good at taking breaks).  Sabiha and I spent five days trekking in the Yenice-Eskipazar, Karabük forest.  As with the Tbilisi-Borçka ride it was a fall color extravaganza.

For the first half of the trek we joined a group from İstanbul.  They had hired a local guide to lead us on an unmarked route north from Eğriova Eskipazar Gölet to İncebacaklar.  Certainly it would have been difficult to follow the route on our own but not impossible.  It tended to follow paths and old currently-impassable-by-vehicle roads.  With a 1:25000 scale map (supposedly available, but where?) and a compass I think I could have led this route with only a few more wrong turns than the guide made!

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It’s too late for the Çoruh

A slow, rotten death that I had the opportunity to experience firsthand.  A mistake and disaster on the scale of Glen Canyon.  It’s over 200km from Muratlı to İspir and just about all of it is or will be flooded.  This is Turkey’s Çoruh River Project that I’ve mentioned previously in this space.  Even though it’s now largely an industrial zone, I was still overwhelmed by the grandeur, magnitude, and beauty of the long, steep, twisting Çoruh River Canyon.  One section (site of the 4th large dam counting from the bottom) goes on steep, dark, and narrow for many kms — reminiscent of Granite Gorge in the Grand Canyon.  I’m not sure if this project has its David Brower equivalent, but many people will die wishing it never happened.

There used to be a wild river in a wild canyon by bryandkeith on flickr
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Fall colors, the military again, and rain: a return to Borçka

I left Tbilisi on election day.  The build-up had been somewhat exciting with marches assembling almost daily in the streets below Kris and Kristen’s 11th floor apartment.  It was a polarized campaign, and happily the Georgians pulled it off fairly well from what I’ve been able to understand.  The ruling party’s out.  The billionaire Bidzina Ivanishvili, head of the Georgian Dream coalition, will likely be the next prime minister.  I couldn’t get a photo of him so you’ll have to settle for one of his house:

Bidzina Ivanishvilis house by bryandkeith on flickr
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Auto-touring eastern Georgia with my parents

On my parents’ first day in Georgia we went to the tourist information office in the National Museum in Tbilisi to pick up some maps.  As we were getting ready to leave, a woman walked across the foyer smiling at us, gushing, “oh my gosh, oh my gosh!”  It was Emily who my parents knew from previous travels in Spain.

DSCN0138 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Friends in Georgia

Georgia.  My first new country since entering Greece last December.  Finally getting somewhere, I guess.  Thankfully that’s not the goal.  Several people — Snežana, Kris and Kristen, fellow cycle tourists — had all warned me that Georgians were the worst drivers in the world.  “But have any of them cycled in India?”, I wondered.  It can’t be that bad.  Yeah, right.  Imagine the chaos and insanity of India’s roads at high speeds, very high speeds.  It seems Georgian drivers have a death wish and no regard for anyone on the road, including themselves.  It’s awful, the worst drivers in the world.

Not all the roads are bad.  Some big highways have 4 lanes and shoulders — no problem.  Some little highways are littered with rocks, potholes, and cows, forcing low speeds — no problem.  Some country lanes have almost no traffic at all — truly wonderful riding.  However, I felt it was a bit of a miracle to survive some stretches of the busy two-lane roads.  The coastal road between Batumi and Sarpi was nasty, and a ~30 km stretch west of Gori was probably the most dangerous cycling I’ve ever done.

DSCN1628 by bryandkeith on flickr
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