Bicycle touring the Colorado Plateau, part one: Chama River and Chaco Canyon

No, I am not in the US, not cycling the Colorado Plateau. We’re stuck at home in Antalya, another under round of covid 19 restrictions. Spending too much time on the internet, I came across a couple articles about the mysterious appearance and disappearance of a metal monolith in the Utah desert, specifically in Lockhart Basin. I looked at the map and thought, “wait a minute — I’ve cycled there!”

It took a little more internet searching to find my trip write-up (from before I started this blog) and a bunch of photos that needed some work. I’ll repost everything here, but the story’s kind of long so I’ll break it into four one-week chunks, with photos of course. This is the first installment, starting at the Chama River in April 2009.

Oh, and maybe you’ve also come across articles about a very similar metal monolith appearing and disappearing near Piatra Neamţ. I’ve bicycled there as well! Hahaha!

Sorry, back on track:

El Vado, New Mexico by bryandkeith on flickr
El Vado, Chama River, New Mexico

This tour was born from the anchors on either end: a float trip in mid-April and a White Rim trip in mid-May. The decision to bicycle between these two trips was not a difficult one. Briana, Jaime, Suzanne, Eric, and I drove south from Boulder, put two boats in at El Vado, and spent three wonderful days floating the Chama. We took out at Big Eddy (just upstream from Abiquiu Reservoir), and it was from there I started cycling.

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Karadağ Tepesi (Kargı, Bucak) with Semra and Bülent

When heading north on the main highway from Antalya to Isparta (to go to Kapıkaya or Dedegöl, for example), there are lots of stunning cliffs, mountains, and ridges visible on the right (east) side of the road. I’ve been on this road many times by car or bus, but I’ve never cycled it (and don’t want to — lots of traffic) so I don’t have photos of these cliffs, mountains, and ridges. You’ll just have to take my word for it.

Bülent sent this map:

IMG-20201112-WA0015 by bryandkeith on flickr

in a WhatsApp message to Semra and me and said we ought to try “Karadağ T.” which you can see in the middle right of the map. Sure, we said, why not? Note that osm has something called “Karadağ” about 4km south of our goal, Karadağ Tepesi. Also note that there are many Karadağ Tepesi in Turkey. Here we’re talking about the one near Kargı (Bucak, Burdur).

We left Antalya by car in the dark, stopped for soup along the way, crossed the southern end of the southern of the two large Karacaören reservoirs, and parked at the base of the mountains with this view:

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Darım Dağı (aka Göktünek Tepesi) with Semra and Bülent

Whenever I go up to Termessos, I look north and admire the steep south face of Darım Dağı. It’s first visible from the kind of steep switchbacks so if you’re feeling lazy and want a rest, you can use the good view as an excuse. The mountain is also visible from Termessos’ theater. See the good looking pyramid?

DSCN8856 by bryandkeith on flickr

Here it is again from a bit further away up at the extensive Southwest (?) Mezarlığı (cemetery), scattered with so many lahit (sarcophagi).

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The end again, in Bitlis

Three and and a half months from Antalya to Bitlis.  This was my longest bicycle tour in Turkey (my Erzurum to Bayburt tour was a couple weeks longer, but I spent a month of that in Georgia).  By the end I was getting tired, but that’s more because Ferda didn’t allow us a rest day.  She was anxious to get back to Antalya.  With some rest I could have kept going to Nemrut, Ahlat, Van, and beyond.

You can take the main highway from Güroymak to Bitlis, but you can also choose the old road.  It’s not well maintained, but most cars could get through, I think.  There’s probably one problematic stream crossing.  With bikes, it’s easy, of course.

That's Nemrut Volcano in the center of the photo. by bryandkeith on flickr

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Karakoçan to Norşên via Lice and Kulp: swimming holes and soldiers

A lot happened this week. When I read through my notes, at times it seemed like it was all heat and flat tires. Certainly there were too much of both, but we also had jandarma excitement, continued language diversity, some stunning scenery, and quite the variety of camping experiences.

From Dersim to Bingöl we crossed Elazığ Province, a one day ride through Karakoçan District.

IMG_20200831_112540 by bryandkeith on flickr

On the first climb we met talkative Christians converted by US missionaries. They complained about the intolerance and prejudice they suffer because of their religion. They also complained of financial hardship because their American friends couldn’t come to help them this year due to covid 19.

We camped that night at the picnic area above the Zaza town of Sarıcan and the nearby Kurdish village of Bulgurcuk.

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