Divriği to Kemaliye, by bicycle

I had planned a good route from Divriği to Dersim before I knew that Ferda and Hacer were joining me for this section. This “good route” meant lots of dirt roads and lots of climbing. I worried it might be too hard for Hacer who went on her first bicycle tour last year on the Frig Yolu with us. This would be her second bicycle tour. However, I insisted we stick with the plan till the district capital of Kemaliye. From there we chose main roads which, though still hilly, were paved.

From Divriği it started out like this:

IMG_20200809_090920 by bryandkeith on flickr
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The sites of Divriği in a week

Divriği’s pretty out of the way, but tourists do make it out here to visit the Ulu Camii and Darüşşifası.  Never heard of them, have you?  Well, no one else has either.  The only reason anyone knows about this building is that it’s one of Turkey’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites: The Grand Mosque and Hospital of Divriği.  Solely because of the UNESCO designation, it’s been on my list to visit for quite some time.

I checked into a hotel, and after an early dinner, after the weather cooled off a bit, I headed straight up the hill to the famous site.  Bah!  Closed for restoration and covered in scaffolding!  Here it is, in a gray metal cage with a white plastic hat:

IMG_20200806_182620 by bryandkeith on flickr

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Tufanbeyli to Divriği via Darende: apricots, mosques, and Anatolian hospitality

Wow, this section was really fun.  The scenery wasn’t great, it was fairly windy and too hot, but the people were wonderful, the apricots were plentiful and tasty, there were things to see, and the mosques, well, the mosques were perhaps the most interesting I’ve seen in Turkey.

The route started in northern Adana (Tufanbeyli İlçesi), passed through Kayseri (Sarız İlçesi), (Kahraman) Maraş (Afşin and Elbistan İlçeleri), Malatya (Darende and Kuluncak İlçeleri), before ending up in Sivas (Kangal and Divriği İlçeleri).  So that’s five provinces (İl) and eight districts (ilçe).  I’m guessing it’s more distance than I covered in any other week of this tour (so far!).

Here’s a sample of the scenery:

IMG_20200728_145305 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Bicycle touring Aladağlar (less mountain eye candy)

I’ve had three big mountain sections of riding on this trip (so far!): Dedegöl Dağları, Bolkar Dağları, and Aladağlar, in that order.  The riding got harder, the elevations got higher, and sadly the scenery was, well, what should I say?, less rewarding from one of these ranges to the next.

The main reason people head to the less accessible east side (compared to the west side from Çamardı) of Aladağlar is to visit Kapuzbaşı Şelalesi (waterfalls).  Of course I had a pass to cross (actually two) to get there from Aladağ (the district capital, not to be confused with Aladağlar, the name of the mountain range).  It was fairly fun riding on a good road without much traffic with the scenery improving as I went north.

After much back and forth with Alper, he decided Alaca isn't visible from here.  The peak in the middle, kind of my itself, is probably Kaldı.  The farthest one we can see to the left is perhaps Vayvay. by bryandkeith on flickr
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Gülek to Aladağ: more castles, mountains, and canyons

From Medetsiz it was mostly downhill to the town of Gülek, then mostly uphill to Gülek Kalesi (a castle), the guardhouse for the Cilician Gates.  I arrived in the evening, pitched my tent, and handled the guard duties for one night.

IMG_20200713_174031 by bryandkeith on flickr
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