Çamlıyayla loops: castles, mountains, and canyons

Fixing my infected tooth requires going to Tarsus (pop. 340,000; elev. ~sea level) once a week to see a dentist (she cleans out the infection, and once she doesn’t find any more, she’ll do a “permanent” filling, and I’ll be done; at least that’s the theory).  Meanwhile I’ve based myself in Çamlıyayla (pop. 10,000; elev. 1200m) and am able to take care of my weekly appointment as a day trip by dolmuş (public minibus).  I was rather ill during my first week in Çamlıyayla, but by the second week I was feeling well enough to get out and do some loops from my comfortable pansiyon (shown here).

Akın Pansiyon where I stayed for 11 nights (mostly recovering from an abscessed tooth) by bryandkeith on flickr

The first loop was just a walk to the castle, Namrun Kalesi, that towers above the window of my room.  It’s on an escarpment surrounded by lower hills — the perfect place for a castle.  When the Armenians were here, they maintained it.  Later, the Ottomans used and maintained it.  I’m not sure who built it.  It’s been over restored.
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Bicycle touring Bolkar Dağları (more mountain eye candy)

I said goodbye to Ferda in Ayrancı and knew that I had a climb ahead of me.  I was leaving the Konya Plains (Karaman, in this case, I suppose) and heading into the Bolkar Mountains.  The first 40km climbed a barely noticeable 500m, but the scenery did start to change.

It's not much, but it does seem that I'm leaving the flats. by bryandkeith on flickr
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Yenişarbademli to Ayrancı via the Konya Plains, by bicycle

Between the Dedegöl Mountains and the Bolkar Mountains, I knew we’d have less stunning scenery, but I also knew there were some interesting cultural sites along the way.  The highlights were expected to be the wooden mosque in Beyşehir, the ancient city of Kilistra, the Kubadabad Ottoman summer palace, and most excitingly Çatalhöyük.

As it turns out, we were one for four, but, hey!, the scenery was better than we expected.  The first dud was the ruins of Kubadabad Palace just east of Yenişarbademli on the shore of Beyşehir Lake.  It was just some piles of rocks from the 13th century.

IMG_20200610_131152 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Bicycle touring Dedegöl Dağları (mountain eye candy)

I had been to Dedegöl once before, with Özgür in the winter.  We went in from the north side, from Melik Yaylası.  I had heard people talking about the camping and climbing area on the west side of the mountain, Kuzukulağı Yaylası, but I had never been here before.

Uh, wow, it’s amazingly beautiful.  I crossed the Köprü Çayı at Yanık and after an approximately 630m climb, the road topped out, and I came to this view:

IMG_20200603_142934 by bryandkeith on flickr

The road I took got steep after Eldere, and I had to push the bicycle for about half an hour.  I learned later that the easier way is to take the right turn about 4km passed Yanık (on the road to Eldere).  There’s a good road to the left, but you want the smaller road to the right.  You have to cross the creek (no bridge).  The road is poor for the first ~500m and leads straight to the yayla.  It’s the route that most cars use.

Taking that route you’ll miss this section of road:
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Roman ruins bicycle touring: Sia, Milyos, Kremna, Adada

For at least a month (two?) I’d been planning on a bicycle tour from Antalya — practice covid 19 social distancing by going from village to village, staying away from big cities.  I even had one false start when I packed up, left Antalya, and turned back due to (not unexpected) equipment problems.  Then there was a heat wave, followed by a four-day stay-at-home order.  I’ve been on the road two weeks now, and things are going well.

My goal for the first week was to get to Dedegöl (Aksu, Isparta) where I’d meet some friends for a few days of camping.  They were coming by car.  I had a week to get there by bicycle.  My route strung together some Roman ruins that I hadn’t been to before: Sia, Milyos, Kremna, Adada; just like it says in the title. 🙂

I left Antalya in the afternoon and had views like this a couple hours later:

IMG_20200529_161538 by bryandkeith on flickr
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