Cyclists in Antalya (and a little cycling too)

I don’t really have any travel stories.  Instead I have some small world stories.

I’ve spent a bunch of time wandering around Antalya looking for a place to stay for a month or so.  One day I met Charley, a British cyclist, who’s been on the road 2-3 years now.  We got on the topic of slow cycle tourists, and he couldn’t help but mention Laurens who “spent nine months cycling through Turkey.”  Hmmm, what am I supposed to think about that?  I spent nine months in Turkey last year, and now I’m planning a little four-month tour for later this year…

DSCN1270 by bryandkeith on flickr

Charley had spent some time with Laurens in Iran, and I was excited to hear some news about Laurens who I met in Antalya last year.  To make the small world story even better, the next day I was catching up on Will’s blog, a cyclist who I met in Erzurum last summer.  He’s met up with Laurens, and they’re part of a small group that will be cycling the Pamirs together shortly.  It’s a small, small world!

On my second Friday night in Antalya I went to an expats trivia night at the Shaker Pub in Kaleiçi.  It was my first time at one of these expat functions even though I first heard of them over a year ago.  There are heaps of expats living in Antalya, but this is an English-language group so it’s perhaps not surprising that I met more people from the US that night than I did in four months in Antalya last year.  A majority were English teachers.

Of course I sought out the cyclists as well.  One was Rose who cycled from Britain to Antalya with her partner, Jim.  Later I checked out their website and was surprised to see that they had cycled with Rhiannon, another cyclist who I met in Antalya last year.  A little more blog research, and I learned:

  • Rhiannon and Jim are siblings.
  • They liked Montenegro’s Bokokotorski zaliv (Bay of Kotor), something I described as “one of the most spectacular flat bicycle rides I’ve ever done”.
  • In The Hague they stayed with Dick and Els, two Dutch cyclists who I hosted at my house in Boulder many years ago.

What a small world (again), and then I remembered that Rhiannon had asked me about cycle route advice through the Balkans.  I found that e-mail and read that the strongest piece of advice I had was not to miss Bay of Kotor.  Maybe they listened?!
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Wrapping up Mexico

Jack sent me off from San Cristóbal de Las Casas with a hug, a smile, a wave, and probably a snicker or two as I set off on my single speed with no pump to find a dirt track that didn’t even exist on my 1:250,000 INEGI map.  My destination was Acala, not far from San Cristóbal, but about 1500m lower and a world away.

These guys:

DSCN4585 by bryandkeith on flickr

didn’t even try to suppress their laughter when they pointed out the descent.  They had asked a typical Mexican question: “what do you do when you get a flat tire?”  “Well, uh, normally, I carry some patches and a pump, but, well, you see, I left my friend in San Cristóbal, and he had the pump.”  “The track’s rough, good luck,” they laughed.  No problem, I have patches, I thought.  I didn’t bother saying it out loud, however.  I’d heard enough laughter.
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Rambling through Tzotzil Chiapas

When Wendy came to Mexico, she brought an Outside magazine for me to take a look at.  Consisting mostly of automobile ads I definitely felt like I wasn’t their target audience.  However, after wading my way through the gear reviews I did manage to find a couple interesting paragraphs.  It was in their “best of” section.  You know: best lightweight headlamp that can signal help if you’re lost on the moon and best tire for your SUV to navigate the Walmart parking lot.  Indeed more wading and eventually I found: “best off-the-beaten-path destination”: Chiapas!

DSCN4346 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Tabasco — a wet, spicy adventure

Water, water everywhere.  Fully one-third of Mexico’s fresh water is in Tabasco.  With water come mosquitoes.  Heaps of them.  So bad that we huddled in the tents during the twilight hour when they were at their worst.  A couple nights we even resorted to eating a cold dinner in the tents to avoid getting out and cooking in the mosquitoes.  Breezes were welcome but rare.

The Grijalva after it's joined by the Usumacinta, Mexico's largest river by volume by bryandkeith on flickr
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Campeche — pirates on the Gulf Coast

Crossing from Yucatán to Campeche took us from milpas to agribusiness.  I hardly expected that such a straight line on the map could delineate such a difference on the ground.  If you don’t know what a milpa is, think Milagro Beanfield War — small-scale, probably family-run agriculture, no irrigation.  They often grow corn and squash together, not bad for the soil, but it requires harvest by hand, according to Jack.

The Mennonites run the agribusiness.  Putting together a few different stories, I can surmise that the Campeche State government invited the Mennonites here from Chihuahua a couple generations ago.  There’s land, they said; water too.  And why not?  Mexico imports food, and Mennonites do a surprisingly good job with the harsh, dry, high land in Chihuahua.  They’re an insular group, but when members decide to leave the culture/religion, they’re welcomed into the nearby communities as Mexicans, according to the tamale makers I talked to in Hopelchén.

Making tamales by bryandkeith on flickr

The straight line on the map didn’t affect the Mayans so much apparently.  We still passed archaeology sites, visited a couple, and were particularly impressed with Edzná, the biggest Mayan tourist draw in the State of Campeche.  The ball court was the smallest I’ve seen, and the five-story building was rather impressive.
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