Recharging the batteries in Athens

Even though the riding pace for the last couple months has been quite slow, I kept thinking it would be nice to take a real rest somewhere.  The short days and cold were taking a bit of a toll, but I also needed to get my mental energy and excitement back.  Because of the high prices in Greece,  I was leaning toward Turkey for such a rest.  Athens turned out to be the spot.  It started with Uglješa who offered to host us for a few days via a Serbian cycling forum.

DSCN8016 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Ancient Greece, modern problems

It’s hard to spend much time talking with a Greek without hearing the words “economic crisis”.  Prices here are stunningly high, and I doubt there are high wages to match.  Indeed Greeks take off for the US, Canada, and Australia to improve their job prospects.  But there are some jobs here, and apparently Greeks won’t do them.  In the agricultural area north of Nafplio and east of Argos, Snežana and I met separate groups of Afghanis and Pakistanis coming to improve their job prospects by picking oranges.  The situation in Greece may be bad, but I’m sure it’s worse in Afghanistan.

Pakistanis in Greece to pick oranges by bryandkeith on flickr
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A cycling companion?

I entered Greece on a cold and rainy day.  I hadn’t even had a sip of my hot tea in a warm, dry café when Tasos said, “tea’s not enough for this cold, you need tsipurou!”  And so I was introduced to the local distilled beverage.  He also invited me to spend the night at the monastery in his village (Ragio?) which I gladly accepted.  In the end that didn’t work out, but I spent the rest of the day (and that night) with Tasos’ brother and sister, Chris (Χρίστος?) and Vasiliki, and enjoyed the warm fire, the warm food, and the warm hospitality.  Communication was easy since Chris and Vasiliki had spent many years living in Toronto.

A couple days later camped on the beach near Paleros, I had ice on my tent for the first time on the coast.  As I was packing up, a man with bushy gray hair, a gray beard, and a Harley Davidson leather jacket rolled up on his motorcycle.  He would fit right in at the Mill Site Inn in Ward.  We exchanged a few words about traveling on two wheels.

From the beach campsite I headed to the bakery in town where a customer who spoke some English helped me communicate with the baker — nothing crucial but I had to make sure the bread was fresh that day.  Ok, maybe a little crucial.  After enjoying my tiropita (cheese pastry — kind of like burek), I walked my bike to the center of town in search of some fruit.  Sitting together outside at the local café were the man from the beach and the man from the bakery, father and son-in-law.  They invited me to join them for coffee.  On hearing that I was headed to Turkey to ride with my buddy, Kurt, in February, the son-in-law said something about snow and cold and offered me his business card.  He runs the local funeral home.

DSCN7671 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Southern Albania — up and down

Northern Albania is on the Adriatic Sea.  Southern Albania is on the Ionian Sea.  Vlorë marks the boundary between these two seas, and indeed the riding in Albania switched dramatically with the sea change.  A coincidence?  Sure.  A pleasant surprise?  Certainly.

DSCN7500 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Northern Albania — rough around the edges

I didn’t know what to expect from Albania.  I had never met an Albanian or even spoken with someone who had been here.  For years Albania was completely cut off from the world.  It’s been open 20 years now, but I certainly don’t hear of visitors flocking to Republika e Shqipërisë.

At times Albania seemed lost in Europe.  With the eagle on the flag, chaotic streets, and horseshoes on the grills of the Mercedes (for the newly rich who traded in their horses?), it seemed like the Central Asian steppes.  Cold windy days, wide gravelly rivers, and occasional stands of leafless trees added to the effect.

In the first town after crossing the border, Snežana asked a question not uncommon for bicycle tourists in India, “which side of the road are we supposed to ride on?!”  Yes, it really was such a mess.  In a way, I loved Shkodër’s infrastructure: the main street in town was a one-lane (half at times) potholed disaster.  On either side were wide beautiful sidewalks.  There were more bicycles than cars, and they rode anywhere they wanted in any direction they pleased.  Snežana follows the local example:

DSCN7411 by bryandkeith on flickr
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