Dubrovnik, Kotor, Budva: gems on the Adriatic

If the coast is the promised land, then what’s to say about Dubrovnik?  That it makes many folks’ 10-things-to-see-before-I-die list is no secret.  Pearl of the Adriatic.  A medieval town with polished marble streets and the shimmering sea as the backdrop.  Baroque buildings, arches, and a maze of narrow, twisting alleys.  Uh, like many people have said before,  wow!

DSCN7192 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Posted in Bicycle touring, Croatia, Montenegro | Tagged , , , , | 9 Comments

Bye, bye winter; the Adriatic in November

The Promised Land.  Oranges and lemons.  Grapes and grapefruit.   Olives and palm trees.  Kiwis and pomegranates.  Wine and olive oil.  Rain instead of snow.  Mostar was close.  Dalmacija was the real deal.  We may not have found the Mediterranean, but we found the Mediterranean climate.  The Adriatic is, apparently, close enough.

The road to the promised land, in this case, followed the beautiful, blue Neretva River.  We found the Neretva at Konjic and spent another frozen night just downstream.  A fantastic gorge brought us to Mostar and our first taste of things to come.  Women sold oranges by the side of the road, and I saw my first palm tree of the trip.  Late afternoon a day later, a bit lost, crossing back and forth over the Neretva River, a woman gave us a small bag of kiwis from the large bag she had just picked.  We found the border in the morning, entered Croatia, and spent two nights camped at the edge of a mandarin orange orchard in the Neretva delta.

Torrential rain trapped us in the tent for two days, but we were warm and dry and thrilled with the endless supply of fresh oranges.  Promised land indeed.  It was probably snowing up in the mountains in Bosnia.  We were also blissfully unaware of how poorly “waterproof” the bags that remained on our bikes were.

Happy Thanksgiving and bags of wet books and wet clothes.  We celebrated the holiday by crossing yet another border, getting a fancy room for the night in Neum, and making a yummy pasta dinner.  Is this really far enough south?  Will winter catch up again?  Stay tuned.

Bundling up for another descent:

DSCN7061 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Posted in Bicycle touring, Bosnia and Hercegovina, Croatia | Tagged , , , , | 8 Comments

Belgrade to the beach?

How many people read Dervla Murphy’s Full Tilt and wondered, “what is this woman thinking, biking through the Balkans in the middle of winter?”  Well, an extra month in Romania, an extra week in Belgrade, and then we started with some lazy, meandering, distracted riding, heading vaguely southwest from Belgrade.  The pace had to pick up, or people might begin to think that I’m crazy!

Frosty bikes by bryandkeith on flickr
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Posted in Bicycle touring, Bosnia and Hercegovina, Serbia | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

Rest, repairs, recuperation, relaxation in Belgrade

Snežana and I ended up spending over two weeks in Belgrade.  Eventually we just had to choose a day to leave since it became obvious that the list of things to do might never end.

DSCN6160 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Posted in Bicycle touring, Serbia | Tagged | 3 Comments

Tour de Karpaty ends in Beograd

Exactly three months after Snežana and I were in Bratislava, we crossed the Danube again on the nasty Pančevo Bridge and rolled into Belgrade.  Big city, big traffic.  The biggest city I’ve been in since Vienna and probably the poorest bicycle facilities of any big city I’ve pedaled in Europe.  Less than one km from the end of Tour de Karpaty, a woman opened her car door in front of me.  Trapped between tram tracks and a curb, I knew I was passing her too closely.  Over the handlebars I went, and I landed running on my feet.  A man at the crowded bus stop patted me on the back, smiled, and said something to the effect of “keep on keeping on.”  Bob Dylan fan?

DSC_0326 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Posted in Bicycle touring, Serbia | Tagged , , , , , , , | 7 Comments