Southern Albania — up and down

Northern Albania is on the Adriatic Sea.  Southern Albania is on the Ionian Sea.  Vlorë marks the boundary between these two seas, and indeed the riding in Albania switched dramatically with the sea change.  A coincidence?  Sure.  A pleasant surprise?  Certainly.

DSCN7500 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Northern Albania — rough around the edges

I didn’t know what to expect from Albania.  I had never met an Albanian or even spoken with someone who had been here.  For years Albania was completely cut off from the world.  It’s been open 20 years now, but I certainly don’t hear of visitors flocking to Republika e Shqipërisë.

At times Albania seemed lost in Europe.  With the eagle on the flag, chaotic streets, and horseshoes on the grills of the Mercedes (for the newly rich who traded in their horses?), it seemed like the Central Asian steppes.  Cold windy days, wide gravelly rivers, and occasional stands of leafless trees added to the effect.

In the first town after crossing the border, Snežana asked a question not uncommon for bicycle tourists in India, “which side of the road are we supposed to ride on?!”  Yes, it really was such a mess.  In a way, I loved Shkodër’s infrastructure: the main street in town was a one-lane (half at times) potholed disaster.  On either side were wide beautiful sidewalks.  There were more bicycles than cars, and they rode anywhere they wanted in any direction they pleased.  Snežana follows the local example:

DSCN7411 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Dubrovnik, Kotor, Budva: gems on the Adriatic

If the coast is the promised land, then what’s to say about Dubrovnik?  That it makes many folks’ 10-things-to-see-before-I-die list is no secret.  Pearl of the Adriatic.  A medieval town with polished marble streets and the shimmering sea as the backdrop.  Baroque buildings, arches, and a maze of narrow, twisting alleys.  Uh, like many people have said before,  wow!

DSCN7192 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Posted in Bicycle touring, Croatia, Montenegro | Tagged , , , , | 9 Comments

Bye, bye winter; the Adriatic in November

The Promised Land.  Oranges and lemons.  Grapes and grapefruit.   Olives and palm trees.  Kiwis and pomegranates.  Wine and olive oil.  Rain instead of snow.  Mostar was close.  Dalmacija was the real deal.  We may not have found the Mediterranean, but we found the Mediterranean climate.  The Adriatic is, apparently, close enough.

The road to the promised land, in this case, followed the beautiful, blue Neretva River.  We found the Neretva at Konjic and spent another frozen night just downstream.  A fantastic gorge brought us to Mostar and our first taste of things to come.  Women sold oranges by the side of the road, and I saw my first palm tree of the trip.  Late afternoon a day later, a bit lost, crossing back and forth over the Neretva River, a woman gave us a small bag of kiwis from the large bag she had just picked.  We found the border in the morning, entered Croatia, and spent two nights camped at the edge of a mandarin orange orchard in the Neretva delta.

Torrential rain trapped us in the tent for two days, but we were warm and dry and thrilled with the endless supply of fresh oranges.  Promised land indeed.  It was probably snowing up in the mountains in Bosnia.  We were also blissfully unaware of how poorly “waterproof” the bags that remained on our bikes were.

Happy Thanksgiving and bags of wet books and wet clothes.  We celebrated the holiday by crossing yet another border, getting a fancy room for the night in Neum, and making a yummy pasta dinner.  Is this really far enough south?  Will winter catch up again?  Stay tuned.

Bundling up for another descent:

DSCN7061 by bryandkeith on flickr
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Belgrade to the beach?

How many people read Dervla Murphy’s Full Tilt and wondered, “what is this woman thinking, biking through the Balkans in the middle of winter?”  Well, an extra month in Romania, an extra week in Belgrade, and then we started with some lazy, meandering, distracted riding, heading vaguely southwest from Belgrade.  The pace had to pick up, or people might begin to think that I’m crazy!

Frosty bikes by bryandkeith on flickr
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Posted in Bicycle touring, Bosnia and Hercegovina, Serbia | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments