Turkey’s far southeast: Sümbül Dağı, Hakkari

I’ve been putting off writing this blog because my camera went kaput just as we were starting up the mountain so I have no photos of what was the reason to travel to Hakkari: climbing Sümbül Dağı.  Of course, my climbing partners took photos, and I’ve posted some here, but I was somewhat disappointed with their photos.

Hakkari is Turkey’s most southeastern province, bordering both Iraq and Iran.  Due to security issues, there are sometimes travel restrictions in place, and indeed when we were here, we weren’t allowed to travel to Yüksekova and needed special permission from the jandarma to climb Sümbül Dağı.  I believe the road between Hakkari and Şırnak was also off-limits at the time.

As far as the climb, well, the last 500m vertical was a fun wide couloir climb, all on snow.  We should have great photos, but it seems folks may have been a bit nervous on the steep snow to take many photos.  The views from the summit of the mountains to the east toward Iran and to the south toward Iraq were fantastic, yet the only summit photos that anyone took were looking west toward the city of Hakkari. 🙁

Here are Naci Abi and Deniz, signing the summit register with the provincial capital below:

90dea3a1-bd9b-46c3-8174-6538f10c7ffc_1 by bryandkeith on flickr

and the only photo of the fun, long couloir:
Continue reading

Posted in Climbing, Trekking, Turkey | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

Bozcaada, Assos, Adatepe, Bergama: a three-day bus tour

I’ve been putting off writing this blog because I felt like it’d end up being pretty negative.  Ferda’s friend, Şebnem, does lots of these weekend bus tours.  She convinced Ferda to come on this tour last spring, and Ferda, in turn, convinced me.  It was a three-day tour, spending two nights at a comfortable hotel in Altınoluk.

The tour itinerary went something like this: Bozcaada and Assos on day one; Kaz Dağı and Adatepe on day two; Cunda Adası, Ayvalık, and Bergama on day three.  Since I’m such a big fan of Roman ruins, I was most looking forward to Bergama (aka Pergamon).  Additionally there’s an old church in Ayvalık that I wanted to visit, and I had heard nice things about the small historic village of Assos.

Certainly the tour wasn’t a complete disappointment, but we could have used our three days in the area much more efficiently.  The worst waste of time was on the third day spending so long at dirty Cunda Adası where there’s really nothing to see (our guide ate breakfast here, but the rest of us had eaten at the hotel), followed by an hour at a viewpoint (Şeytan Sofrası) where 10 minutes for a photo would have been more than enough.  In the end our guide decided we didn’t have time to stop in Ayvalık that day.  Oh, by then I was pissed.

But, wait, I didn’t want this to be so negative.

We started with an overnight bus from Antalya to Geyikli where the ferries leave for Bozcaada.  How Condé Nast readers chose this island as the world’s second most beautiful remains a mystery to me.  We spent a couple hours to visit the fortress and wander around the cute center.  I’ve only been to a few islands in the Aegean. Chios is far and away my favorite.

DSC08760 by bryandkeith on flickr
Continue reading

Posted in Traveling, Turkey | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Ihlara to Antalya via the Konya Plains, by bicycle

Another short bicycle tour in Turkey.  It only took 10 days to cycle from Ihlara to Antalya.  The unusual thing about this tour was just how flat it was: ~8000m of climbing in 700km.  That doesn’t sound so flat so we have to put those numbers in context.  That’s the same climbing:distance ratio as our trip from Hamburg to Stockholm this summer and lower than any other trip I’ve done in Turkey.  I guess you’d have to tour in Holland or Bangladesh to get a much flatter tour than this one.

I started by heading south out of Ihlara straight toward the picturesque volcano, Hasan Dağı.  I ended up skirting the northern and western flanks of the mountain, enjoying the views from different angles.

20171113_142825_1 by bryandkeith on flickr
Continue reading

Posted in Bicycle touring, Turkey | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Kırşehir, Ihlara Vadisi, and Güzelyurt

The Ihlara Valley is on many people’s short list of places to visit in Turkey.  For good reason.  It’s often considered part of Kapadokya (Cappadocia), but it’s a fair bit west of the main area of Kapadokya.  Ferda and I had both been to Kapadokya before, once together, but neither of us had been to Ihlara or Güzelyurt before.

The excuse for this trip was to visit Ferda’s good friend, Yeliz, who moved with her husband and two kids to Kırşehir recently (for his work).  Kırşehir is a small provincial capital smack in the middle of the country, only about 100km north of the Ihlara area.  Few tourists make it to Kırşehir.  There’s not so much to see.  It does seem like a pleasant enough place to raise kids.  We enjoyed the beautiful park just across the street from Yeliz and Ozkan’s home.

DSC06311 by bryandkeith on flickr
Continue reading

Posted in Bicycle touring, Turkey | Tagged , , , , , , | 1 Comment

A walk up Tahtalı Dağı in the winter

Tahtalı Dağı (aka Mt. Olimpos) is the most famous of the high mountains near Antalya.  It’s certainly not the highest, but it sits quite near the sea.  The view of the mountain’s 2366m summit from the seaside resort of Çıralı is pretty fantastic, particularly in the spring when it’s warm enough to swim and the mountain is still covered in snow.  I ought to have some photos of that — Ferda and I have stayed quite a bit at Çıralı, climbing, camping, and enjoying the beach — but I don’t seem to have any photos.

DSCN0808 by bryandkeith on flickr

Tahtalı sees more people on its summit than any other mountain in Antalya, but that’s not because it’s a such a great climb (it’s not).  It’s because there’s a teleferique to the summit!  The reason I had never climbed this summit was precisely because there is a teleferique to the summit!  Hasan and Fahri organized this winter ascent in February 2016, an unusually low snowfall year.  It probably would have been a funner climb in February this year (2017) when there was much more snow.  We drove up to Beycik and started walking a little above that at about 1150m.  It was surprisingly green down there.  We ended up having a casual 7.5 hour day with rather warm weather for February. Continue reading

Posted in Trekking, Turkey | Tagged , | 1 Comment