Five winter days in Kaçkar with İsmet and the Bulgarians

Training for Nepal, part two.

I wanted to call this post “skiing in Kaçkar”, and, well, the week started with skiing, but it didn’t end with skiing.

I took an overnight bus from Niğde to Erzurum, went straight to the hotel where I always stay in Erzurum, and was able to check into a room in spite of the early hour (7am).  It was a 15-hour trip from Recep’s place in Martı Mahallesi to the (famous?) Kervansaray Hotel in Erzurum.  Zekeriya, the manager, recognized me, but I didn’t recognize him at first — he lost weight, grew a beard, and had on a spiffy pink dress shirt.  Looking good.

As arranged by İsmet, I met Yılrıdım at his shop and picked up some rental AT (aka randonnée) gear — boots, skis, and skins.  Before heading off to the (somewhat remote) Kaçkar Mountains for five days, I took a taxi up to Palandöken to test the equipment at the local ski resort.

I'm about to use AT/randonnée gear for the first time by bryandkeith on flickr

This is what one might look like after spending three hours skinning up 900m to just over 3100m.
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Five winter days in Aladağlar with İsmet and Alper

Training for Nepal, part one.

I wanted to call this post “skiing in Aladağlar”, and, well, the week started with skiing, but it didn’t end with skiing.

I took an overnight bus from Antalya to Niğde and arrived at Recep’s place in Martı Mahallesi (Çukurbağ, Çamardı) a couple hours before İsmet and Alper did.  The Çamardı dolmuş, by the way, stops at the yeni otogar on it’s way to Çamardı so there’s no reason to get the servis into the city to the eski otogar if you’re heading out the Çamardı road.  It was a 14 hour trip from my house to Recep’s comfortable hotel, Aladağlar Camping Bungalow.

Recep's place by bryandkeith on flickr

Recep served us a late breakfast, and we took off in the early afternoon for Emli Vadisi with Salim, our driver for the week.  This is a problem with Aladağlar — you really need daily motorized transport to get to and from the various trailheads.
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A couple winter days in Eskişehir

For my last post, I felt like I couldn’t say enough good things about Konya.  Less than a week later Ferda and I (with her parents too!) were in Eskişehir.  This post will be a little more subdued.  I certainly liked Eskişehir the first time I was here.  Maybe this time was a case of too high expectations.  As I mentioned before, Turks compare Eskişehir to cities in Europe.

Certainly Eskişehir’s street art:

IMG_20191218_151133 by bryandkeith on flickr

could remind one of Bratsilava’s:
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Konya and the whirling dervishes

Konya, wow!  How come I had never been here before?  It’s not far from Antalya, and for a number of years Ferda and I had looked at the schedule for the annual Şeb-i Arus festival to try and coordinate a trip.  However, I feel like people dis Konya a lot which is one of my excuses for having not been before.  I have to thank Tommy for inspiring us to go this year.  When he was visiting us in Antalya, he talked about heading to Konya next to see the whirling dervishes.  In the end Tommy didn’t go, but he put the idea in my head.  Thanks, Tommy.  Konya’s a great place to visit.

Şeb-i Arus Festival, also known as Mevlana Festival or Rumi Festival or Whirling Dervishes Festival — take your pick!, not surprisingly attracts lots of Iranians.  Born to Persian parents, Rumi wrote most of his poetry in Persian.  In Shiraz I remember being impressed with how the Iranians could recite Hafez’s poetry from memory.  I bet they do well with Rumi also.  However, it’s not just Iranians — we talked with Japanese (from Fukuoka where Ferda and I had been less than two months earlier!), Malaysians, a German woman, and an Afghan man all in Konya for the festival.  I had no idea to expect such an international crowd.

Ferda and I squeezed this trip in between a couple other commitments and only spent two days in Konya.  That’s not enough.  You need at least three days, more if you want to attend workshops, classes, or discussions about Sufiism, Rumi, and related topics.  Another mistake we made was not going to the new Panorama Müzesi first.  There we found the best overview of Rumi’s life and also interesting information about Selçuk symbols that we had seen in other museums and mosques in the city.  The internet reviews of this “wax museum” aren’t great, but there really is some good information here.

For example, at the Taş ve Ahşap Eserleri Müzesi (Museum of Wood and Stone Carving) which is housed in the handsome İnce Minare Medrese:

IMG_20191213_125533 by bryandkeith on flickr

which happens to have some nice tile work:
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Wrapping up Saudi Arabia: Abha, Khamis Mushayt, Riyadh

At 2200m Abha might be Saudi Arabia’s most pleasant city.  In the winter it’s so cool that I was finally able to use all the warm clothes that I carried from Jeddah:

IMG_20200211_105409 by bryandkeith on flickr

The high season for tourism is the summer when people flock to Abha to escape the intense heat suffered in most of the Arabian Peninsula.  Abha’s average July high temperature of 29°C, compared to 42°C in Riyadh and Mecca, sounds very pleasant indeed.

Similar to my experience in Oman and United Arab Emirates, urban areas in Saudi Arabia are pretty grim for pedestrians and cyclists.  I saw more pedestrians in Abha than anywhere else I went, the best of a bad lot, I guess you could say.  There was this quite pleasant park, a nice 20 minute walk connecting my hotel’s neighborhood with downtown Abha:
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