Konya and the whirling dervishes

Konya, wow!  How come I had never been here before?  It’s not far from Antalya, and for a number of years Ferda and I had looked at the schedule for the annual Şeb-i Arus festival to try and coordinate a trip.  However, I feel like people dis Konya a lot which is one of my excuses for having not been before.  I have to thank Tommy for inspiring us to go this year.  When he was visiting us in Antalya, he talked about heading to Konya next to see the whirling dervishes.  In the end Tommy didn’t go, but he put the idea in my head.  Thanks, Tommy.  Konya’s a great place to visit.

Şeb-i Arus Festival, also known as Mevlana Festival or Rumi Festival or Whirling Dervishes Festival — take your pick!, not surprisingly attracts lots of Iranians.  Born to Persian parents, Rumi wrote most of his poetry in Persian.  In Shiraz I remember being impressed with how the Iranians could recite Hafez’s poetry from memory.  I bet they do well with Rumi also.  However, it’s not just Iranians — we talked with Japanese (from Fukuoka where Ferda and I had been less than two months earlier!), Malaysians, a German woman, and an Afghan man all in Konya for the festival.  I had no idea to expect such an international crowd.

Ferda and I squeezed this trip in between a couple other commitments and only spent two days in Konya.  That’s not enough.  You need at least three days, more if you want to attend workshops, classes, or discussions about Sufiism, Rumi, and related topics.  Another mistake we made was not going to the new Panorama Müzesi first.  There we found the best overview of Rumi’s life and also interesting information about Selçuk symbols that we had seen in other museums and mosques in the city.  The internet reviews of this “wax museum” aren’t great, but there really is some good information here.

For example, at the Taş ve Ahşap Eserleri Müzesi (Museum of Wood and Stone Carving) which is housed in the handsome İnce Minare Medrese:

IMG_20191213_125533 by bryandkeith on flickr

which happens to have some nice tile work:
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Wrapping up Saudi Arabia: Abha, Khamis Mushayt, Riyadh

At 2200m Abha might be Saudi Arabia’s most pleasant city.  In the winter it’s so cool that I was finally able to use all the warm clothes that I carried from Jeddah:

IMG_20200211_105409 by bryandkeith on flickr

The high season for tourism is the summer when people flock to Abha to escape the intense heat suffered in most of the Arabian Peninsula.  Abha’s average July high temperature of 29°C, compared to 42°C in Riyadh and Mecca, sounds very pleasant indeed.

Similar to my experience in Oman and United Arab Emirates, urban areas in Saudi Arabia are pretty grim for pedestrians and cyclists.  I saw more pedestrians in Abha than anywhere else I went, the best of a bad lot, I guess you could say.  There was this quite pleasant park, a nice 20 minute walk connecting my hotel’s neighborhood with downtown Abha:
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Rijal Almaa: 3 visits in 8 days!

Saudi Arabia has huge plans for tourism.  According to an article in the January 2020 issue of DirectionsKSA (published in Riyadh), Saudi Arabia plans to be “among the top five tourist destinations in the world by 2030”.  They predict “the number of domestic and international tourists will reach about 100 million by 2030”.  I’m guessing that includes Umrah and Haj visitors as well, but still it seems wildly optimistic.

If you read anything about where to visit in the Kingdom, well, the area around Al Ula, including the Nabatean site of Madain Saleh, is often the first place mentioned.  Oddly for their first winter with the country open to tourism, the sites there were mostly closed this year for a big tourism development project.  That’s why I didn’t go.

The second place on these lists is mountainous Aseer Province in SW Saudi Arabia, bordering Yemen.  I have some photos of the steep mountains and the schist architecture in my last post.  The crown jewel of Aseer is perhaps Rijal Almaa.

IMG_20200205_171400_3 by bryandkeith on flickr

During my rest day with Hassan at his house in Sumeri, Hassan’s brother-in-law, Hasan Ali, wanted to take me by car to Rijal Almaa.  No, thank you, I said, I’ll be arriving by bicycle in a couple days.  He insisted.  It is, I suppose, the only reason anyone comes to this area.  It’s not hard to see why.
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Bicycle touring Saudi Arabia: Aseer’s schist villages?

The scenery between Jeddah and Qunfudhah was pretty uninspiring, and overall I was disappointed with the snorkeling as well.  I had a nice rest in Qunfudhah with Sultan and his friends, but I wasn’t super optimistic when I left.  Who knew that I was heading into the best riding of the trip?

Maybe I should have known because I was crossing into Aseer where the famous (?) “Flower Men of Saudi Arabia” live.

One of the flower men of Aseer? by bryandkeith on flickr

First I had to ride inland a bit on the main highway to get around yet another desalinization plant.  Then I found some fun roads to take me back to the coast for the last time.
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Bicycle touring Saudi Arabia: the Red Sea snorkeling report

This snorkeling report only covers the places I snorkeled while cycling between Jeddah and Qunfudhah.  In brief, it was disappointing, not worth the effort.  Maybe the snorkeling is better north of Jeddah.  Maybe I didn’t find the right places — it’s very hard to find any information.  Maybe you really need to get out in a boat — although I did try this once and also failed to find good snorkeling.

One difficulty you’ll have both with snorkeling and bicycle touring is dealing with the “border patrol”.  They’re very active along the Red Sea and prohibit swimming in most places.  They also prohibit using the coastal track in many places.  However, they’re super friendly and polite, always giving me water, sometimes food, and once putting me up for the night in an air conditioned room.  They usually wanted my passport and entry stamp, sometimes my visa, usually made some calls, apologized for taking my time, and welcomed me to Saudi Arabia.  When I requested (which was every time I really wanted), I usually (always?) got permission to cycle their coastal track and sometimes permission to snorkel.  I don’t have any photos because, well, they don’t want people taking photos.  However, here’s a photo of the dinner they gave me when I spent the night at one of their merkez:

IMG_20200127_201524 by bryandkeith on flickr

I wrote about snorkeling at Al Qattan in my last post (more photos here).  I’ll mention it again because it really was good.  If you like snorkeling, it’s worth a detour (in a car) from as far as Jeddah.  I’ll say it again, the hard coral was stunning:

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